March 26th, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

El Señor de los Temblores

Semana Santa (Holy Week) is upon us and nowhere is this celebrated with quite as much fervor as in Cusco. At this time the city becomes even more full of color, noise, and activity than usual, and you cannot go anywhere without seeing a parade, procession, stalls selling special food, and general merriment. It is a joyful time to be in the city. And the procession for the Señor de los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes) is perhaps the most recognized symbol of the week and a celebration wholly unique to Cusco.

Taking place on Easter Monday each year, the Señor de los Temblores procession is one of the most keenly anticipated events in the calendar and gives residents of Cusco the chance to honor the two most important strands of their culture; the Incan religions and Catholicism. For this festival is one of the clearest examples of the fascinating mix of cultures that has existed in Cusco, ever since the first Spanish conquistadores arrived in the 16th Century. The celebration has its origins in the 17th Century when a devastating earthquake was prevented from inflicting untold damage on Cusco when faced with an oil painting of Christ on the Cross. Or so the story goes. The painting was grabbed by the locals and held up to the skies whereupon the earthquake began to lose some of its strength and a true catastrophe was averted. This story has stood the test of time and the image of Christ on the cross is celebrated to this day as being the ‘Lord of the Earthquakes’. To pay tribute the citizens of Cusco flock to the Plaza de Armas every Easter Monday and watch as a statue of the image is paraded through the streets, giving a blessing to all who have turned out. And it is here where the cross of cultures is seen most clearly, as the practice of parading images through the streets to be venerated by the people was a huge part of the Incan culture. The ancient Incan practice of letting the people see the chieftains, high priests, and rulers as they processed through the streets was mixed with the Christian idea of Christ on the Cross to create this fascinating and completely unique festival.

The day itself is quite a spectacle, and it all really gets going in the evening when the statue of Christ begins its journey around the streets of Cusco. The image is kept in the Cathedral during the year but each Easter Monday at 7pm it leaves the church, on the shoulders of pallbearers, and travels through the crowds to bless the local people. The majority of cusqueñans believe it to be incredibly important to receive the blessing first hand and so the streets around the main square are filled with virtually the entire population. The statue itself is spectacular and has been blackened over the centuries by the smoke and incense used at the celebration. It was originally a gift from King Charles V of Spain and the Cathedral has never wanted to replace it, giving it a somewhat darkened, eerie complexion today. As it makes its way through the streets the statue is draped in Ñucchu flowers, including a crown made from the petals, whose crimson color is meant to represent the blood of Christ. The faithful come from all over the city to catch a glimpse of the statue and receive the blessing. It is a day of real faith and religious fervor and a chance to celebrate the mix of the old Incan culture and the more recently arrived Catholicism that makes Cusco so special. At the end of the procession the statue makes its way back to the cathedral where it is laid to rest for another year.

Semana Santa is one of the best times to be in Cusco and to experience the parade of the Señor de los Temblores is to experience a tradition dating back hundreds of years that showcases the fascinating cultural mix that exists in the city. It is a place with so much history and tradition, coming from a variety of countries and cultures, and there is no better time to see the city at its best than during Holy Week.

Cusco, Festivals , , ,
March 22nd, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

Incanto Restaurant

Cusco is littered with great restaurants and one of its lesser known gems, Incanto, is worthy of taking its place alongside the more established eateries such as Chicha and Cicciolina. Incanto is a relatively new restaurant, but is part of a family of places that includes some of the very best places to eat in Peru, let alone Cusco, and has carved out a great reputation for itself over the last few years. It is known as a place with a lively, friendly atmosphere, and somewhere that offers consistently good food to guests looking for something a little bit different. It is one Cusco’s nicer restaurants and although not perhaps the city’s most famous culinary offering, it certainly makes for a lovely way to spend an evening.

The Cusco Restaurants umbrella (www.cuscorestaurants.com) consists of seven fantastic eateries in the city, of which Incanto is just one. Some of Cusco’s most famous restaurants are part of the stable and if you have spent time in the city and not enjoyed a meal at least one of Greens, Inka Grill, MAP Café, or Limo, you are really missing out. Each has a slightly different modus operandi, and different target customer, with MAP offering high end Peruvian Haute Cuisine, Inka Grill providing creole, international, and Peruvian food, and Greens catering for that much under represented group in Peru, vegetarians. For its part, Incanto can be defined as a fusion restaurant, offering interesting and quirky dishes with a clear focus on Italian and Peruvian food. The menu is chock full of great little pasta dishes, some of which will be familiar to seasoned eaters of Italian food, and some that you will not have seen anywhere before. Incanto is one of those places that has something for even the most fussy eaters, as well as providing some slightly more adventurous dishes for those who want to move away from Spaghetti Bolognese and Pizza Margarita. So something for everyone, and all of it delicious!

It is the fusion Italian-Peruvian dishes that really grab the attention, and the Quinoa ravioli and Alpaca Milanesa, to name just a couple, combine the finest Andean ingredients with classic Italian cooking techniques and dishes. There is a strong focus on local produce and you will find lots of dishes offering Andean vegetables, meats, and fruits, to create cuisine that owes a huge debt to the traditions of Cusco as well as to Italian cities such as Rome, Milan, and Naples. Fusion is sometimes thought of as a dirty word in cooking terms, but in the hands of the chefs at Incanto it becomes something really special, and a term loaded with creative possibilities.

And it is not just the food that grabs the attention as the décor, ambience, and service are all of the highest order. Frankly this is what you would expect by a Cusco restaurant nowadays as the culture of service has come a long way in the last few years. You will be as well taken care of here as you would be in any internationally renowned restaurant in Europe, USA or Asia. The place is also always packed to the rafters with customers, meaning you will enjoy a lively atmosphere and never feel uncomfortable. There is nothing worse than walking into an empty restaurant and sitting down to a meal that will seem to drag and drag and drag as you eat in complete silence. Incanto is young, friendly, and always animated.

Cusco currently has a thriving food culture and there are great restaurants opening up all the time. The established places such as Chicha will always be featured in guide books and come top of ranking lists, but it pays to look further afield and try some of the places that may not be number one on Trip Advisor. Incanto is just one of a number of special places, offering fantastic food and a great atmosphere, and is well worth a try.

Cusco, Gastronomy, Peruvian Cuisine , ,
March 19th, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

La Tierra de los Yachaqs

The Sacred Valley has so much to offer and is so well known to a lot of tourists that it can sometimes be difficult to find those new and exciting activities that really offer something different. It is what a lot of visitors look for in a trip and I personally I am always hopeful that I can get off the tourist trail for at least a day and see a bit of what local life is like. So the emergence of a new tourist project in the area will have many of you checking your work schedules and booking days off and to come out here and experience the Tierra de los Yachaqs, before it too becomes part of the traditional guide book haunts.

The Tierra de los Yachaqs (Land of the Yachaqs) is a beautiful and remote part of the Sacred Valley near the town of Lamay, a few miles from Pisac. The town itself has little to offer, and is really just a provincial village, but the nearby hills are home to some of the most fascinating communities in the area. The Yachaqs consists of five separate communities that have existed in the area for centuries and have now come together to offer a tourism based project giving visitors the chance to experience their way of life. However, this is not just the traditional community project where outsiders come in and run the show, as here it is the villagers who design and organize the activities. They decide what it is they want to show and are in charge of the planning and logistics involved in showing tourists this remote part of Peru. Naturally they have help from experts, but the locals have been trained to deal with customers and to plan daily trips and excursions, meaning the project has a real focus on helping the local people. It is an authentic experience managed by the community and is one of the best ways I have seen to get off the beaten track and see life in the Sacred Valley.

Last week I was fortunate enough to visit the project and see first-hand the kind of work they are doing. The day began with a welcome from the Hanac Chuquibamba community, set high up in the mountains with stunning views over the valley. We were greeted by a dozen or so members of the community who proceeded to introduce themselves and explain their functions within the village. They introduced themselves in the local language of Quechua, not English or Spanish, and you get the feeling that this is a traditional place that makes no concessions to tourists. We are just there to see a slice of their daily life. After the greeting, a bit of music, and an explanation of the day’s activities, it was then time to set off on our hike. For this is not just a passive experience, and is a day to really get out amongst the mountains and experience the untouched scenery for yourself. Accompanied by a few of the more active members of the Hanac Chuquibamba community we gradually made our way towards the Huayllafara village on the other side of the hills. This is not as easy as it sounds and as you struggle up the inclines and down the other side, only to see another slope coming towards you, you will wonder if Huayllafara can ever be reached. But putting aside the hills, the walk takes you through some of the most beautiful countryside you will ever have experienced and it is a real privilege to be guided by local experts. As you go they point out the medicinal plants that are used to cure all kinds of different ailments and explain how the local people put the vegetation to use in their daily lives. After a couple of hours we were met by the representative of the Huayllfara community who took us the half an hour we still had left before lunch. What is striking is the kind, warm hearted nature of the people here, and we were greeted in Huayllfara in exactly the same way that we had been in Hanac Chuquibamba. Coming from London, a city famous for its surly, unsmiling commuters, it is quite refreshing to see people just so happy with their lot. We arrived knocked out by the walk but luckily a delicious meal made using the finest local ingredients was not long in coming and we all sat down together and enjoyed the finest Andean cuisine. With the day almost out the villagers still had time to explain a bit more about their way of life and demonstrated some of their agricultural techniques. This is a people who live off the land and they are true experts, working from tips, ideas and advice passed down through the generations. You can even have a go yourself at plowing a section of the field if you feel up to it!

The Tierra de los Yachaqs is one of the most interesting experiences I have had in the Sacred Valley and certainly makes a change from Pisac and Ollantaytambo. The traditional attractions here are truly stunning, but after a few years in Cusco I have come to point where I am keen to see different things and visit places that aren’t necessarily set out in guidebooks or on Trip Advisor. The Tierra de los Yachaqs has a real authentic feel about it and spending the day with these most welcoming, friendly, and enthusiastic people is truly special.

Uncategorized
March 12th, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

Cuenca, Ecuador

The city of Cuenca in Ecuador is one of the hidden gems of South America but is often overshadowed by the more famous colonial cities of Quito, Cusco, and numerous others dotted around the continent. But this is Ecuador’s real jewel, and although not quite as grand or immediately impressive as Quito, it is a much more rewarding place to visit and really opens up after a few days spent wandering the beautiful little alleys and streets. It may not be the first on your list or somewhere that rings a lot of bells, but it is a place that is sure to captivate and astound, and will have you coming back time and again. Or at least wanting to come back time and again!

The city has been in existence for centuries, and the first inhabitants are thought to have settled in the year 8050 BC, but it was with the Spanish invaders that the city took on much of its present charm. The Europeans brought with them innumerable horrors, and the legacy of pain and suffering is still felt today, but what cannot be denied is the beauty of some of the cities they built. And Cuenca is perhaps the very finest example of this. It was founded in 1557, a few decades after the nearby Spanish settlements of Quito, Loja, and Guayaquil, and its population and importance grew steadily during the colonial era, reaching its peak in the beginning of the 19th Century. When Ecuador achieved independence in 1820, Cuenca became the capital of the province, underlining the important role it had begun to play in the economic and cultural life of the burgeoning country. The past glories can still be observed to this day, and it is the historical center that draws thousands of tourists each year to the city. Wandering the narrow streets you can almost feel the history seeping out of the colonial buildings that line your path.

There is something very intimate and appealing about the city, and although its population is over 500,000 it sometimes feels as though you have stepped back into a small provincial town of centuries past. It certainly doesn’t feel like the third biggest city in Ecuador. It doesn’t have the grandeur of Quito and is instead a quiet, charming town with narrow cobblestone streets, red-tiled period buildings, and stunning plazas and churches. The historic center is the biggest draw and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. This is the area where you will find the best and most beautiful examples of the colonial architecture and where you can take in the innumerable sites, one of which is the Old Cathedral. The area is also incredibly compact, arranged in a grid-like layout, making it extremely easy to navigate. All the major sites are within easy reach, and you don’t have to worry about taxis or buses to get around. You can just pick a point and set off on a walk, taking in everything the city has to offer as you go. This is very best way to see any city, and luckily for you, it is as if Cuenca was made for the curious tourist who enjoys a wander! The city has also long been a home for writer and poets and there are numerous cafes and galleries tucked away among the alleys and plazas. It is a really arts-oriented city, and has a notably relaxing, creative air about it. Perfect for setting up your easel and letting your creative juices flow!

South America is known for its colonial cities, with some of the most beautiful architecture around, and Cuenca comes in near the top of the list as an example of this. Cusco and Quito both attract more visitors and guide book column inches, but Cuenca really deserves more recognition. It is a truly beautiful town, with history, culture, and endless charm, and is a must-see site. It is one of those places that is just a joy to visit, and rather than highlighting particular churches or museums, I would recommend just spending a few days soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the architecture and feel of the place.

Cities, Ecuador , , ,
March 8th, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

Peruvian Potatoes!

Forget Machu Picchu, what Peru is really famous for is potatoes. And although 100% of people who come to this country probably pick the famous Incan citadel over that most delicious food, the potatoes here are worth the plane ticket alone. They are an incredibly important part of life, particularly in the Andean region, and have been ever since the Incan’s made Cusco their capital in the 15th century. They turn up in practically every dish, and a meal that already has rice is no barrier to chucking on a potato or two. Simply put, a meal without potatoes is not a meal at all. This is perhaps not great news for those calorie counters out there, but if you can forget about your fear of carbohydrates for a few days, you can enjoy one of Peru’s most important exports to the full. You will come away a fully-fledged potato head.

South America is the birth place of the potato, and although the exact origin is unknown, I’m going go with Peru. Seems like the obvious option. Potatoes were domesticated here as early as 10,000 years ago, and the vegetable has played a vital part in life ever since. Over the centuries potatoes developed from being a bitter vegetable containing dangerous toxins, to being the staple food of the local people and the main energy source for early Peruvian cultures. It is believed that the Spanish conquerors took the vegetable back to Europe with them and the Western love affair began in earnest. But whereas we in England have only been enjoying the delights of the potato for 400 years, the Peruvians have a much longer history with the food, and consequently it is tied up with their cultural and culinary identity. They are proud to be the fathers of the vegetable and it is as important today as it ever was.

Nowadays, potatoes can be found everywhere, and the section in any market where they are sold is a sight to behold. As a London boy, I would like to think I am fairly familiar with the humble spud, and have always counted it as one of my favorite foods. There is something so comforting about a potato and there is nothing better than a freshly baked Maris Piper on a cold winter’s night. But any illusions I had of expertise were dashed when I arrived to Peru, with the realization that I only recognized about 3 of the countless varieties on offer here. For Peru has a frankly ridiculous 3,500 varieties of potato.Now that may seem unbelievable, but taking a walk along any market in Cusco you will realize how easily you could arrive at such a mind-blowing number. There are big potatoes, small potatoes, potatoes that resemble those you can buy at home, and then potatoes that you could only picture in science fiction films. Looking at the vibrant greens, reds, and purples you will wonder if they can possibly be potatoes. They look more like…well, I don’t know what. Something pretty strange. The majority are not quite so odd though and there are just loads of different variations on the more traditional potato, coming in all sorts of weird shapes and sizes. This great variety brings with it different tastes, and if you ever thought a potato is a potato is a potato, think again. You would be amazed how different they can taste, and with years of experience to go on the chefs and cooks in Cusco have learned how to use each different potato and bring out its individual qualities. They are masters of using this humble vegetable and its appearance in practically every dish is no surprise. They just taste so good.

Today’s culture in certain countries seems to be a bit afraid of the potato, and the evil calories it hides within its smooth, yellowy surface. Not so in Peru. Here the potato is a vital staple and is important to the daily lives of many people in the Andean region of the country. After living here for over two years I am still not bored of it, and I am now getting to the stage where if I see a plate of food without a spud, I am liable to lose it and refuse to eat. A meal is not a meal without at least one potato, and Peru is the vegetable’s spiritual home. Spend some time here and you will wonder how you ever lived without your daily dose of starchy carbohydrate.

People and Culture, Peruvian Cuisine , , ,
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