Tag Archive: Peruvian culture

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Peruvian Potatoes!

Forget Machu Picchu, what Peru is really famous for is potatoes. And although 100% of people who come to this country probably pick the famous Incan citadel over that most delicious food, the potatoes here are worth the plane ticket alone. They are an incredibly important part of life, particularly in the Andean region, and have been ever since the Incan’s made Cusco their capital in the 15th century. They turn up in practically every dish, and a meal that already has rice is no barrier to chucking on a potato or two. Simply put, a meal without potatoes is not a meal at all. This is perhaps not great news for those calorie counters out there, but if you can forget about your fear of carbohydrates for a few days, you can enjoy one of Peru’s most important exports to the full. You will come away a fully-fledged potato head.

South America is the birth place of the potato, and although the exact origin is unknown, I’m going go with Peru. Seems like the obvious option. Potatoes were domesticated here as early as 10,000 years ago, and the vegetable has played a vital part in life ever since. Over the centuries potatoes developed from being a bitter vegetable containing dangerous toxins, to being the staple food of the local people and the main energy source for early Peruvian cultures. It is believed that the Spanish conquerors took the vegetable back to Europe with them and the Western love affair began in earnest. But whereas we in England have only been enjoying the delights of the potato for 400 years, the Peruvians have a much longer history with the food, and consequently it is tied up with their cultural and culinary identity. They are proud to be the fathers of the vegetable and it is as important today as it ever was.

Nowadays, potatoes can be found everywhere, and the section in any market where they are sold is a sight to behold. As a London boy, I would like to think I am fairly familiar with the humble spud, and have always counted it as one of my favorite foods. There is something so comforting about a potato and there is nothing better than a freshly baked Maris Piper on a cold winter’s night. But any illusions I had of expertise were dashed when I arrived to Peru, with the realization that I only recognized about 3 of the countless varieties on offer here. For Peru has a frankly ridiculous 3,500 varieties of potato.Now that may seem unbelievable, but taking a walk along any market in Cusco you will realize how easily you could arrive at such a mind-blowing number. There are big potatoes, small potatoes, potatoes that resemble those you can buy at home, and then potatoes that you could only picture in science fiction films. Looking at the vibrant greens, reds, and purples you will wonder if they can possibly be potatoes. They look more like…well, I don’t know what. Something pretty strange. The majority are not quite so odd though and there are just loads of different variations on the more traditional potato, coming in all sorts of weird shapes and sizes. This great variety brings with it different tastes, and if you ever thought a potato is a potato is a potato, think again. You would be amazed how different they can taste, and with years of experience to go on the chefs and cooks in Cusco have learned how to use each different potato and bring out its individual qualities. They are masters of using this humble vegetable and its appearance in practically every dish is no surprise. They just taste so good.

Today’s culture in certain countries seems to be a bit afraid of the potato, and the evil calories it hides within its smooth, yellowy surface. Not so in Peru. Here the potato is a vital staple and is important to the daily lives of many people in the Andean region of the country. After living here for over two years I am still not bored of it, and I am now getting to the stage where if I see a plate of food without a spud, I am liable to lose it and refuse to eat. A meal is not a meal without at least one potato, and Peru is the vegetable’s spiritual home. Spend some time here and you will wonder how you ever lived without your daily dose of starchy carbohydrate.

The Pisco Sour!

Next Saturday is Pisco Sour day here in Peru, so for all those who haven’t tried this fantastic cocktail, now is the time! Although its origin is hotly disputed with Chile, the Pisco Sour has become a symbol of Peru and Peruvian national identity and is as closely linked with the country as ceviche. Pisco itself is a very strong grape brandy produced in the Pisco and Ica region of Peru just south of Lima, and is an acquired taste that certainly takes some getting used to. But by adding lime juice, sugar and a few other ingredients you can come up with something really special!

Now ubiquitous in bars not just in Peru but all around the world, the Pisco Sour originated in Lima in the early 1920’s when an American bartender, Victor Vaughn Morris, stumbled across the concoction. Morris had lived in Peru for decades, and his bar, popular with the moneyed classes and foreigners, was renowned for experimentation and always surprising regulars with new, bold drinks. This spirit of experimentation led Morris to devise a variation of the Whiskey Sour, using the local liquor, Pisco. The story goes that one night in 1922 Morris surprised his friends with a new drink he called Pisco Sour that fused Peruvian Pisco with the American sour, and needless to say the bar guests went home pretty happy! No records exist of the Pisco Sour recipe that Morris used but we do know that the drink went through various changes before a final recipe was settled upon. As an experienced cocktail maker and perfectionist Morris worked tirelessly to better what he had and regular visitors to the bar at the time commented on the continuously improving taste of the drink. He knew he was onto a good thing and began to advertise his new drink all around town, attracting more and more people to his bar. The Pisco Sour became its signature drink, and soon the bar was filling up with ever increasing numbers of people all raving about the ‘white-colored beverage.’ Inevitably other bars began to see the success Morris was having and introduced their own copy-cat versions of the Pisco Sour which, coupled with the owner’s failing health, led the bars fortunes to decline. But Morris’s legacy stands today and he will no doubt have been delighted to see just how popular his drink has become.

This story is generally accepted as the origin of the Pisco Sour, although there are many people who dispute it, particularly from Chile. There are various stories from that side of the border about where the drink actually came from but I’m sticking to the story of Morris’s bar!

Wherever it came from the Pisco Sour is undoubtedly a delicious drink, and that is all that really matters. Ever the patriots, the Chilean and Peruvian versions differ, but the one popular in Lima and Cusco is the one I know and is made by mixing Peruvian Pisco with lime juice, sugar syrup, egg white, Angostura bitters for garnish and ice cubes. The egg white is a very important component, and although it means you have to be a bit careful at what kind of places you buy a Pisco Sour, it also gives the drink a delicious white froth. It is a refreshing drink that has a tart, sharp kick to it, and gets better the more you have! The Angostura gives it a pleasantly bitter aftertaste and the Pisco adds the alcoholic kick to the sweetness of the sugar and the refreshing sharpness of the lime juice. It is just a perfect mix and one that has been honed and refined ever since its inception in 1922. We have now reached the point of the perfect Pisco Sour, and it is by far the best way to drink the local liquor.

Variations exist on the Pisco Sour and it is now common to find Mango Sours, Passionfruit Sours, and basically any other fruit you can think of. But the Pisco Sour is the original and best, so why not try one on the first Saturday in February and celebrate Pisco Sour day in style!

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Peruvian cuisine on the rise!

Over the last few weeks and months there have been hundreds of articles in all the major newspapers, blogs and magazines proclaiming Peruvian cuisine as the next big thing. Now, this may just be the latest media fad, forgotten as soon as the next wonder kid of international food appears, but it is undeniable that Peru’s fantastically varied cuisine is enjoying a long overdue appreciation abroad. In my home town of London 5 new Peruvian restaurants have sprung up in the last year alone, and this is a fact repeated in all the major cities and food centers of the world. It appears the world has woken up to the exotic flavors and ingredients of Peru, and for one simple reason: the food is delicious!

The biggest attraction of Peruvian cuisine is that it is so varied, taking in all manner of ingredients and influences. One of the main reasons for this is the incredible biodiversity of the country, which incorporates Pacific coastline, Andean highlands and the Amazon jungle. There are all sorts of products to be found throughout the country, and a really unbelievable amount of great produce, from potatoes and chili peppers in the Andes, to exotic fruits and vegetables in the Amazon. The coastal region is also not left behind, providing some of the world’s best quality fish. In a country with such a varied geography it was only natural that crops, fruits, and flavors from all four corners would combine to make something truly special!

Aside from the ingredients used, another reason Peruvian cuisine is so unique is the influence of other cultures on the country. From the Spanish conquistadores, through 19th Century European arrivals, and to more recent immigration from the far-east, Peru has been subjected to influences from all over the globe and this is felt most keenly in the cuisine. Each of these cultures brought with them crops, flavors, dishes, and ideas on food, which combined with the existing Incan and indigenous foods to create a new type of cuisine. The Inca diet of 500 years ago was largely based on potatoes, grains such as quinoa and corn, meats such as alpaca and cuy (guinea pig), and fruits. In certain areas of Peru, most notably the Andean region around Cusco, this still remains the staple diet, but after the Spanish arrived in the 16th Century it stopped being all people ate. The Spanish brought with them new culinary ideas and techniques as well as exciting new ingredients such as olives, dairy products, beef and chicken, which quickly infused with existing products and dishes. The arrival of the Spanish was the major cultural change but subsequent influences also had a big impact, such as the influx of European immigration after independence, and the more recent impact of immigration from China and Japan. The Peruvian Chifa (adapted Chinese cuisine) is the delicious result of this, and an incredibly popular dish, Lomo Saltado (stir fried onion, beef and tomatoes), is obviously influenced by far eastern flavors.

The food here is very regional and what you get in one part of the country will bear virtually no resemblance to what you can eat somewhere else. It is difficult to characterize each region, but the coastal area around Lima is most famous for fresh seafood, and in particular Ceviche. This is probably Peru’s most famous export and certainly one of its most delicious dishes, and really must be eaten in Lima! It is similar to sushi but rather than being raw, the fish is marinated in lime juice, which serves as a cooking process. The marinade is combined with salt, herbs and chili, to leave a spicy but incredibly refreshing final dish.

The Andean region is characterized by much heartier fare and meat and potatoes are the staples here. Cuy is probably one of the most famous dishes and is essentially roast guinea pig with potatoes and noodles. It takes a little while to get used to, and is probably not one for the faint hearted, but it is well worth a try! But there are all sorts of other spectacular dishes to be found in this area, all involving spicy sauces and hot peppers, meat, and potatoes. Look out for Aji de Gallina (chicken in a spicy peanut sauce), Papa a la Huancaina (boiled potatoes in a spicy sauce), and Chicharron (deep fried crispy pork served with salad and potatoes), all real classics of the region!

Peruvian food is one of the world’s great cuisines and is only now starting to get the worldwide recognition it deserves. It is a product of incredible biodiversity, with the geography of the country allowing all sorts of fantastic crops and fruits to be cultivated. Immigration into Peru has also created a unique melting pot, and over the centuries the wildly different food cultures and peoples that arrived combined to produce a cuisine that is wholly different, special, and extremely delicious!

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The ‘Day of the Dead’ in Peru

This week, while most of United States and Europe were getting ready for Halloween and the chance to dress up and scare friends and relatives, much of Latin America was focused on the festivals and parties surrounding the Day of the Dead. This is most famously a Mexican festival, and although it is celebrated with most intensity in that country, it is also extremely popular in Peru. In recent years, with the influx of more and more tourists and the influence of American culture, television, and films, Halloween has become more widely celebrated, but the Day of the Dead is still far more important to the people of Peru, and is observed all over the country.

The festival falls on the 1st and 2nd November each year, and the Day of the Dead is a celebration to honor and remember departed friends and relatives. The festival itself dates back to pre-Hispanic times when the local people used to mummify their dead and take them on processions through streets and plazas. With the arrival of the Spanish and the Catholic religion in the 16th century these traditional practices were stopped, but the festivals celebrated today have retained the indigenous traditions of maintaining contact with the dead, only that they are now combined with more Christian elements. And indeed the Day of the Dead festival is a mixture of the Catholic holy day ‘All Souls Day’ and traditional indigenous customs.

Throughout Peru different rituals and customs are observed in celebrating the festival, and depending on the family, street parties, building altars at home, and visiting graveyards to lay offerings are all commonplace. But at its heart, throughout the country and in every family, the festival is a celebration of the dead and is very much a joyous occasion. It is a way to spend time at the graves of departed relatives, think about them, and remember and honor the life they had. It is by no means a somber day and rather than dwell on the loss, people in Peru prefer to celebrate the life the person led, what they liked, and what they achieved.

Although celebrations differ depending on where you are in the country, the 1st November is generally a day to spend at home with the family and enjoy a special meal, usually lechon (roasted suckling pig). This meal is a festive occasion with a full spread of food and drink being accompanied by music, jokes, and a general good time! The 2nd November is traditionally the day to visit the cemetery to spend time at the graves of loved ones and bring offerings. All manner of offerings are brought, from flowers and food, to ornaments and treasured objects, and the graveyards during these days, filled with all kinds of colors and objects, are a truly beautiful sight. It is also not uncommon to hear music played in the cemeteries, turning a sometimes dark, sad place, into a real joyous atmosphere.

The Day of the Dead is one of the most important festivals to the people throughout Peru, and is a day to remember loved ones. There is something quite special about the whole family getting together to share thoughts about relatives, and rather than being a poignant, somber occasion, it is a real celebration of life. Honoring the dead is a custom that dates back hundreds of years, to a time before the Spanish conquest, and keeping the dead in their thoughts is as important to Peruvians today as it ever was.

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Peru’s Glorious Food Fest! Enjoying Mistura!

By Emily Guilmette, Kuoda Travel
Dear Kuoda Friends and Family,

While I know that gourmets have been savoring the world’s most fabulous foods since the dawn of time, I do think that the past few years (at least in the U.S.) have seen a particular renaissance of appreciation of great eats. There is more interest in local food, less processed food, traditional tastes and culinary innovations than ever. Perhaps economic tough times have made cooking and food even more of a comfort – and a relatively affordable adventure. We’re more and more open to foreign tastes and more and more interested in how others eat.

What’s wonderful is that this interest is growing worldwide! In Peru, food has always been a crucial cultural touchstone and the fabulously varied cuisine is increasingly recognized internationally. Four years ago, its greatest proponent – the talented celebrity chef, Gaston Acurio – decided it was time to celebrate Peru’s gastronomic riches. And so Mistura was born!

This gigantic food fest – in the center of Peru’s vibrant capital, Lima – brings together the country’s greatest chefs (both famous and under the radar), best produce, most fabulous breads and traditional regional treats. It attracts hundreds of thousands of people, both Peruvians and visitors.

I love Peruvian food – the variety, the sauces, the incredible creamy soups, the tangy spicy ceviche, the incomparable golden roasted chicken. For me, visiting the supermarket when I travel is terribly fun and grocery shopping in Cusco is a true thrill. So, I have to admit to being a bit disappointed when I wasn’t able to make it to Lima for this year’s Mistura.

Instead, our good friend (and foodie) in Lima, Chris, was able to take in the festivities for us so that we can all salivate and plan our trips for next September. Here’s what he told me about his exciting day:

“This is the first time I’ve been able to make it to Mistura and when I walked through the gates, I didn’t know where to begin – it’s IMMENSE! So I started in the area called the “big market” (Mistura is divided into different sections – the market, fine foods, traditional foods, etc.), which exhibits the best of what our soil, climate and human effort yields. There is so much variety – I saw at least 50 species of fruits, tubers and veggies that were completely new to me! And I got to taste them! For example, fruits from the jungle region – very juicy, exotic, some sweet, others acidic, others bittersweet, some with a touch of spiciness… Best of all were the native potatoes. I got to try varieties that are grown in such remote regions that they are only eaten by the farmers themselves because it’s too hard to bring them to a market.

In the portion of the market devoted to breads (Peru’s breads are INCREDIBLE), masters of flour were making with such ease breads of different tastes and shapes. They are truly artists!

I then moved on to a section of Mistura showcasing Peruvian grilled foods. First up – chicken and pork cylinder-style. This is an ingenious cooking method that allowed workers to cook in shops using materials at hand. Basically, a metal cylinder is stood up vertically and loaded with wood. The meat and potatoes cooked this way were simply spectacular: juicy with a unique smoky aroma!Next, it was time for wood-smoked pork, cooked on gigantic grills. The pork is rotated constantly in order for the meat to be cooked evenly – this is hard work, but the result is very good! I also found Pachamanca, originating from the Peruvian mountains, that consists of cooking meat and tubers buried in the ground. After approximately three hours, they’re ready to eat!

One of the plates in this section of Mistura that was quite interesting for me was the anticucho of Pota. Traditionally anticuchos (a street-food a bit like shish-kebab) is made of cow heart. Pota is like a gigantic calamari, and for those who like seafood, it is exquisite when grilled. People waited in very long lines to get this!

I then moved on to the jungle region, where I found some traditional plates known for their aphrodisiac power. For example, the Juanes and the Tacacho con Cecina! There were also fish native to jungle rivers (like the Paiche) that can measure as much as two meters in length.

Some of my favorite plates of the day included Kankach, which is a dish from Puno that consists of a tender mutton baked in a rustic mud oven and served with potatoes that have been frozen before being cooked, called Chuno. Another of the plates that agreed with me was the Chanfainita (lung) with ceviche and Papa Huancaina – a very Peruvian plate known also as “Seven Colors.” Another great dish was the Huatia, seasoned generously with Hierba Buena and served with potatoes and Oco, which is a kind of sweetish tuber. And, of course, there was cuy – or guinea pig – prepared in a wood-fired oven, which is actually quite delicious as long as your imagination doesn’t run wild!

When I’d eaten all I could, I visited the section devoted to Peruvian piscos and other drinks. I found the famous Pisco Sour, a potato sour (!!), the Machu Picchu (a layered drink with three colors – red, green and blue) and a wonderful tasting menu of diverse piscos.

It was then time to visit the zone of chocolatiers, where we found many types of chocolate, cacao beans, chocolate ice cream, chocolate drinks, hot chocolate, spicy chocolate and even chocolate sculptures! In the area devoted to sweets, I found picarones (a sweet potato fried doughnut accompanied by fig honey, membrillo and confectioners sugar), merengue and dulce de leche Suspira limenos, black corn jelly, arroz con leche and a very delicious sweet that is called frozen cheese, originating from the province of Arequipa.

I finished the feast with a variety of Peru’s excellent coffees!

In terms of logistics – the organizers of this mega-event try to not overlook any detail. The security inside and outside the festival was really good and the efficiency with which they serve you in each stand was fantastic.

My conclusions about the festival – I believe that Mistura is one of the best ideas that the great Peruvian chef, Gaston Acurio has had. It attracts not only the Peruvian public but also a large number of tourists from different countries who want to know a little about Peru. It’s a great place to realize that Peru isn’t just Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca or other fantastic tourist sites as you sample diverse dishes and watch Peruvians reliving their favorite memories as they taste a well-loved plate.”

Check out photos from the event here!

Many, many thanks to Chris and please email me at emily@kuodatravel.com if you have any questions about Mistura or Peruvian cuisine!

Best wishes to all!

Emily