Tag Archive: lake titicaca.

December 11th, 2012
post by Kuoda Travel | | 2

The Road to Puno

The route from Cusco to Puno (and vice versa) is one of the most traveled in Peru, as more and more people flock to Lake Titicaca. Puno itself is not particularly inviting, and although some of the hotels are exceptional, there is little to do in the town, at least compared with Cusco, Lima, and Arequipa. But of course, the principal reason to head to Puno is that it sits at the shore of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake, and one of Peru’s most impressive sights. The vast majority of people arrive in Puno having first spent time in Cusco, and the road you travel is one of the most striking routes in the world. Traveling from the central highlands of Cusco, you go through valleys, up hills, across high altitude passes, and finally onto Puno, on a journey that will take your breath away, both literally and figuratively, as much because of the high altitude as the incredible scenery!

There are various options available to ensure you make the most of the journey, and one of the best is the Inka Express bus. Operating a luxury bus service with some of the most comfortable vehicles around, the major selling point is the stops made along the way. Rather than just heading directly for Puno, Inka Express have a top guide on board who entertains you with stories, history, and interesting facts as you go, and is also on hand to take you through the various stops. The route is one of the most historically and culturally rich in the country and there are endless points of interest along the way, of which the company have selected five. You will pass through the fascinating town of Andahuaylillas, with one of Peru’s most extravagant churches, on to the impressive ruins at Raqchi, before stopping for lunch in the town of Sicuani. With a full and satisfied stomach, you will then hit the highest point of the route and the La Raya pass, at an altitude of 4,335m. As you step from the bus and struggle to get your breath, enjoy the remarkable scenery and the feeling of being at an altitude that is really only fit for alpacas! Finally, as you begin to flag, you pull up in the town of Pucara with its fascinating museum, before arriving Puno at the end of an enlightening day. They really look after you and provide an exceptional service, offering great comfort and the best, most interesting stops, and it makes this most unforgettable route that bit more unforgettable!

But you are not restricted to the road if you have Puno on your list, and the other option is the Andean Explorer train that completes virtually the same route. Operated by the same people who run the services to Machu Picchu, it is worth mentioning that this is far more than just any old train, and is one of the most luxurious journeys you are ever likely to take! The carriages are extremely opulent, and are the real definition of elegance. Picture those old movies you have seen (think Murder on the Orient Express), with their low lighting, rich colors, mahogany finishings, and all round aura of class, and you will be somewhere close to the feel of the Andean Explorer train. It is like being transported back 60 years, and there is no better way to enjoy a breathtaking journey. Aside from the train itself the journey also differs from the bus, in that there are no stops made along the way. The 10 hour ride passes at a leisurely pace, allowing you to relax into your surroundings and really make the most of this once-in-a-lifetime trip. Of course, missing out on the tourist stops is a bit of an issue, more so for some people than others, but the train has its obvious advantages, and as you sip your champagne, enjoying the passing scenery in your elegant carriage, I doubt you will be itching to get off!

There are other options for this journey, and one particularly worth a mention is the private car. With the advantage of giving you the chance to follow your own schedule and arrive to Puno as quickly as you want (within reason!), as well as begin able to enjoy your own private guide and driver, this option has obvious merits. Let us know if it interests you. And then of course, for those who are pushed for time, there is the flight. Now, unless there is no other option, I would not recommend flying, at least not for this journey. The way I see it, why fly directly over all this beautiful countryside, when you can enjoy it up close and personal, in a luxury bus, train, or your own private car! It is one of the world’s finest journeys, so make the most of it and don’t spend the time in the clouds!

Peru Travel, Travel , , , ,
November 20th, 2012
post by Kuoda Travel | | 3

Best of Bolivia!

Following on from our post about Ecuador, today we bring you Bolivia! This landlocked country in the center of South America does not have the same volume of tourists that its neighbors Peru and Brazil enjoy, but has just as much to offer as those two countries. For such a small country Bolivia has an abundance of ecosystems, cities, and landscapes to enjoy, from the bewildering La Paz and the immense salt flats at Uyuni, to the jungle to the east and the highland towns of Sucre and Potosi. It does not have quite the same infrastructure as Peru, and is not as obviously set up for tourists, but don’t let that put you off, as to dismiss Bolivia, is to dismiss the chance to explore some real wonders of South America!

Upon arrival to Bolivia, your first stop is likely to be La Paz. While Sucre is the official capital city of the country, La Paz is the de facto capital, as it has a much larger population and is the seat of government. The first thing you will be struck by is the altitude as the city sits in a mountain canyon at an elevation of 3,632m. This setting allows you to enjoy some spectacular views over the mountains surrounding the city, but does mean that you may struggle to climb the stairs! Once you get used to breathing and acclimatize, you will be endlessly surprised and overwhelmed by all that the city has to offer. It is the definition of bustle and the crowds that flock the narrow streets bring life, color, and lots of noise to the place! The street life itself is the main attraction, and you will want to just wander the fascinating streets and markets, taking it all in and soaking up the atmosphere. As well as the street life, there are countless examples of fantastic colonial architecture and churches, museums, and markets to be explored, and the sprawling Witches Market is a particular favorite. It is a strange and beguiling place to visit, and you are sure to be captivated by the smells, colors, and sounds you see all around!

Moving further towards the central highlands of the country, the cities of Potosí and Sucre are two of the most interesting places to visit. The constitutional capital Sucre is a real architectural marvel, showcasing beautiful whitewashed colonial buildings and churches. Known as the ‘White City’, all the buildings have a beautiful white coating which must be painted once a year to maintain their character. It does not have the same frenetic nature as La Paz, and you can enjoy the tranquil streets and markets of this UNESCO World Heritage Site in relative peace. Potosí is the other city in this Andean region that is a must visit, and is a place steeped in history. Once the most important town in the Spanish Latin American Empire, Potosí has since fallen on harder times, but retains some of its old sense of grandeur and importance. Sitting at 4,100m it is the highest city in the world and is situated at the foot of the Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), famed for its mineral wealth, in particular silver, which the Spanish conquerors exploited and exported back home. Consequently Potosí became a very large mining town, with a population equivalent to contemporary London mining and exporting under terrible conditions, and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the museums and the mining tours, and find out what the people of this region went through all those years ago.

Moving away from the highland towns and cities, the Salar de Uyuni is probably the most famous attraction that Bolivia has to offer. This beautiful salt flat is the world’s largest at 4,085 square miles and is a place that will really take your breath away. Here you will experience all manner of unique landscapes and exotic wildlife and it sometimes feels like you are at the end of the earth. Or perhaps on another planet! The best way to see the flats is with your guided jeep on an at least 3 day trip, enabling you to experience all the wild attractions. Not only will you be able to see the salt flats themselves, but the area is also replete with lagoons, hot springs, volcanic geysers, and huge rock formations, and you will come away with some breathtaking photographs. It is hard to put into words the beauty of Uyuni, so come and see for yourself!

The other natural wonder you won’t want to miss is Lake Titicaca, which is on the Peruvian border and is shared with that country. The Lake is regarded as the birth place of the Incan Civilization, and is one of the most sacred places for the indigenous people of both Peru and Bolivia. It is recognized as the world’s highest navigable lake at an altitude of 3,820m, so once again climbing stairs may be an issue in this part of the world! While most people enjoy the attractions of the Peruvian side, the Bolivian half of the lake is in some ways more impressive and has just as much to offer. This area is home to several small island communities, and these are one of the principal attractions of a visit here. The Sun and Moon islands are two of the most important examples and coming here is the perfect chance to get to know the culture and history of this part of Bolivia. The beautiful landscapes offer incredible photo opportunities and it is not to be missed!

Bolivia is a place of incredible natural wonders and beautiful UNESCO cities that is ripe for exploration. It does not have quite the same infrastructure as Ecuador or Peru, but what it lacks in quality 5 star hotels and restaurants, it more than makes up for in attractions, and the Salt Flats of Uyuni, Lake Titicaca, and the cities of La Paz, Sucre, and Potosí, are really worth a visit!

Bolivia, People and Culture, Places and Archaeological Sites, Uncategorized , , , , ,
August 24th, 2010
post by Rachel | | Closed

Virgen del Carmen festival in Paucartambo

By Laurel Thompson, Kuoda Travel
For a few days out of each year the quiet, colonial backwater town of Paucartambo comes to life. It is suddenly overfilled with thousands of visitors, spectators who come to see and be a part of one of South America’s most vibrant and fascinating fiestas.

For five days, ( starting on the 15th of July), thousands of devotees hold festivals in honor of the Virgen del Carmen, known locally as Mamacha Carmen, patron saint of the mestizo population.  Dance groups, all magnificently masked and costumed in accordance with their respective customs, accompany the Mamacha in a huge parade, gaily dancing down the city streets. Behind them the entire population of the town gathers quietly, forming itself into a pious mass bearing candles, flowers and other offerings. It is a colorful mix of Andean pre-Columbian ceremonies and Catholic religion in which many ancient gods and rites are honored.

The Virgin del Carmen (the virgin of Mount Carmel) is a particular apparition of the Mother of Jesus. Images of the Virgin always show her dressed in brown and tan, wearing a flat crown, and holding the Infant Jesus; both of them hold scapulars in their hands. It is said that all those who die while wearing the blessed scapular of the Lady will be saved from the fires of Hell, no matter how great their sins.

The Spanish introduced the custom of paying homage to the Virgin. The festival comes from the Old World, where the Virgin was honored in seaports as Stella Maris. The tradition has its origins in the Old Testament, when the prophet Elias retreated to a cave in Mount Carmel in Israel. Many centuries later, hermits following in Elijah’s footsteps asked for the protection of the Virgin of Carmen. Mariners and fishermen everywhere soon adopted her as their patron saint.

There is a legend that tells of how the festival first came to Paucartambo: long ago, every year during the first days of July, a wealthy woman called Felipa Begolla would always come to Paucartambo to trade goods. She would come with her mule train laden with goods from her homeland, which she exchanged for Paucartambo’s produce.

One year on July 16th, while she was unpacking her bundles, Felipa found the head of a beautiful woman radiating rays of light lying among the pots and pans. When she tried to cry out, she found that she could not speak, and when she tried to run she was unable to move. Then the lovely head spoke to her, calming her fears and telling her that her name was Carmen.

Felipa put the head on a fine silver dish that she had been carrying with her to trade and, as the head glowedbrilliantly, a crowd of muleteers and neighbors gathered around it. A carpenter was commissioned to carve a wooden body for the head and, mounted on an elaborate litter, the Virgin was carried to the local church where her miraculous image was placed on one side of the main altar.

On July 16th, now the main day of the fiesta, the Virgin, beautifully adorned, is borne aloft in a fantastic procession through the streets to bless those present and scare away demons. Some of the dancers –the Saqras- in a representation of the never-ending battle between the forces of good and evil, daringly perform gymnastic feats on the housetops, showing off their colorful Inca and colonial garb while they try to seduce the Virgin, crying out as if in pain and trying to avoid her impassive stare. Afterwards, a symbolic battle is staged amongst the devout dancers and the demons, with the traditional victory of the faithful.

On the 17th, a feast is held that includes the dead. All the people of the town go to the cemetery to visit their dead relatives and friends. They carry food and drink to celebrate beside the graves.

Preparations for the fiesta begin weeks before July 14th,  since, on that day and the ones that follow it, everybody is dedicated to celebrating and honoring their patron and do not have time to work.

In particular, the 16 groups of dancers, or comparsas, are kept quite busy learning and rehearsing their strict choreography over the few weeks before the celebration.

They all represent semi-mythical characters, derived from Peruvian historical folktales and legends, such as malaria victims, Ukukus (half man half bear), condor-men and warlike jungle Indians. On horseback or on foot they reel through the streets throughout the fiesta.

A few examples of the different comparsas (participants) are:

The Saqras, which are Euro-Andean devils that dress in vivid rainbow-colored costumes and elaborate animal masks. They occupy the rooftops and balconies of the town during the processions in which the Virgin is carried through the streets, vying with her for the crowd’s attention.

The Auca Chilenos represent painful memories left by the Chilean army during the War of the Pacific.

The dancers of the Capaq Negro group, one of the most elegant groups present, honor the memory of the slaves who worked in the silver mines and cotton fields during the colonial period. They dance and sing to a slow, stately rhythm.

The mischievous Maqtas seem to be everywhere at once. These anarchic tricksters are the ones who maintain order during the festivities, policing both the participants and the crowds of spectators, ensuring that whenever the Virgin is present, hats are removed and that there is a brief pause; otherwise the flow of beer is practically never-ending.
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