Category Archive: Places and Archaeological Sites

Best of Bolivia!

Following on from our post about Ecuador, today we bring you Bolivia! This landlocked country in the center of South America does not have the same volume of tourists that its neighbors Peru and Brazil enjoy, but has just as much to offer as those two countries. For such a small country Bolivia has an abundance of ecosystems, cities, and landscapes to enjoy, from the bewildering La Paz and the immense salt flats at Uyuni, to the jungle to the east and the highland towns of Sucre and Potosi. It does not have quite the same infrastructure as Peru, and is not as obviously set up for tourists, but don’t let that put you off, as to dismiss Bolivia, is to dismiss the chance to explore some real wonders of South America!

Upon arrival to Bolivia, your first stop is likely to be La Paz. While Sucre is the official capital city of the country, La Paz is the de facto capital, as it has a much larger population and is the seat of government. The first thing you will be struck by is the altitude as the city sits in a mountain canyon at an elevation of 3,632m. This setting allows you to enjoy some spectacular views over the mountains surrounding the city, but does mean that you may struggle to climb the stairs! Once you get used to breathing and acclimatize, you will be endlessly surprised and overwhelmed by all that the city has to offer. It is the definition of bustle and the crowds that flock the narrow streets bring life, color, and lots of noise to the place! The street life itself is the main attraction, and you will want to just wander the fascinating streets and markets, taking it all in and soaking up the atmosphere. As well as the street life, there are countless examples of fantastic colonial architecture and churches, museums, and markets to be explored, and the sprawling Witches Market is a particular favorite. It is a strange and beguiling place to visit, and you are sure to be captivated by the smells, colors, and sounds you see all around!

Moving further towards the central highlands of the country, the cities of Potosí and Sucre are two of the most interesting places to visit. The constitutional capital Sucre is a real architectural marvel, showcasing beautiful whitewashed colonial buildings and churches. Known as the ‘White City’, all the buildings have a beautiful white coating which must be painted once a year to maintain their character. It does not have the same frenetic nature as La Paz, and you can enjoy the tranquil streets and markets of this UNESCO World Heritage Site in relative peace. Potosí is the other city in this Andean region that is a must visit, and is a place steeped in history. Once the most important town in the Spanish Latin American Empire, Potosí has since fallen on harder times, but retains some of its old sense of grandeur and importance. Sitting at 4,100m it is the highest city in the world and is situated at the foot of the Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), famed for its mineral wealth, in particular silver, which the Spanish conquerors exploited and exported back home. Consequently Potosí became a very large mining town, with a population equivalent to contemporary London mining and exporting under terrible conditions, and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the museums and the mining tours, and find out what the people of this region went through all those years ago.

Moving away from the highland towns and cities, the Salar de Uyuni is probably the most famous attraction that Bolivia has to offer. This beautiful salt flat is the world’s largest at 4,085 square miles and is a place that will really take your breath away. Here you will experience all manner of unique landscapes and exotic wildlife and it sometimes feels like you are at the end of the earth. Or perhaps on another planet! The best way to see the flats is with your guided jeep on an at least 3 day trip, enabling you to experience all the wild attractions. Not only will you be able to see the salt flats themselves, but the area is also replete with lagoons, hot springs, volcanic geysers, and huge rock formations, and you will come away with some breathtaking photographs. It is hard to put into words the beauty of Uyuni, so come and see for yourself!

The other natural wonder you won’t want to miss is Lake Titicaca, which is on the Peruvian border and is shared with that country. The Lake is regarded as the birth place of the Incan Civilization, and is one of the most sacred places for the indigenous people of both Peru and Bolivia. It is recognized as the world’s highest navigable lake at an altitude of 3,820m, so once again climbing stairs may be an issue in this part of the world! While most people enjoy the attractions of the Peruvian side, the Bolivian half of the lake is in some ways more impressive and has just as much to offer. This area is home to several small island communities, and these are one of the principal attractions of a visit here. The Sun and Moon islands are two of the most important examples and coming here is the perfect chance to get to know the culture and history of this part of Bolivia. The beautiful landscapes offer incredible photo opportunities and it is not to be missed!

Bolivia is a place of incredible natural wonders and beautiful UNESCO cities that is ripe for exploration. It does not have quite the same infrastructure as Ecuador or Peru, but what it lacks in quality 5 star hotels and restaurants, it more than makes up for in attractions, and the Salt Flats of Uyuni, Lake Titicaca, and the cities of La Paz, Sucre, and Potosí, are really worth a visit!

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The Best of Northern Peru!

The Northern region of Peru is one of the most under explored and underappreciated areas of the whole country, and could be somewhere to consider for your next trip! Understandably most people who come to Peru head to the South, where the biggest attractions are found, such as Cusco, Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca, but this does mean missing out on the treasures of the north.

Aside from the attractions, one of the best things about heading to Northern Peru is that you will be one of only a handful of tourists there. Given that they are the most popular attractions in the country, the sites of the southern area can get a bit crowded at certain times of the year, and although this isn’t really a problem, it’s always nice to explore somewhere fresh. Enjoying the North feels like you are discovering you own little corner of Peru! Although it has all the tools to become incredibly popular with visitors, for some reason the North hasn’t really taken off as a tourist destination, meaning that you get to enjoy your holiday without lots of other travelers around. So take advantage of it now, before everyone else catches on!

As far as attractions go, the biggest draw of the Northern coastal region is that it is home to some of the greatest archeological sites in the whole country, centered around the cities of Chiclayo and Trujillo. Both these cities, particularly Trujillo, are beautiful colonial places to explore, with fascinating streets and architecture, but they really serve as bases for the nearby archeological ruins. The most famous of all is the great adobe city of Chan Chan, situated 5km west of Trujillo. Built around 850 AD by the Chimu civilization, Chan Chan is the world’s largest adobe city and is composed of ten walled citadels which were used as ceremonial rooms, burial chambers, temples, and residences. It is a truly fascinating place to just wander round and explore! Near the city of Chiclayo is another wonderful site, and the Royal Tomb of Sipan is definitely a must-see. It is a really modern museum with some striking architecture, holding a selection of Peru’s most spectacular exhibits. The principal attraction is the tomb of the Lord of Sipan which was only discovered in 1987, and details the multilevel funeral tomb of a Moche civilization figure buried more than 1,700 years ago. It is a remarkable site to witness and it is worth venturing to the North for this alone. In this archeologically rich area there are also myriad other sites, such as Moche civilization pyramids, and it is just something a bit different from the more famous Incan ruins of the south. These sites are the jewel in the crown of the North, if not Peru as a whole, and they are really worth a visit.

For those of you who want something a bit more relaxing, the beach town of Mancora could be worth a look. The vast Pacific coastline is home to miles and miles of great beaches but Mancora is the pick of the bunch. This old fishing village has evolved into a charming little town in recent years and has become one of the hottest new destinations in Peru, with visitors taking advantage of the beautiful beaches and scenery, as well as the fantastic seafood on offer. It has a true South American beach vibe, and although the crowds have started to flock there in recent years it still retains the charm that made it popular with locals in the early days. And if you are into surfing this is definitely the place to come, as the waves are worthy of the professionals!

Moving slightly further south towards the center of the country we have the Cordillera Blanca mountain region and the city of Huaraz. This is a true climber’s paradise with dramatic snowcapped mountains reaching heights of over 6,000m. The most famous mountain to be explored is Huascarán, topping out at 6,768m (22,205 ft), and in addition to this there are more than 30 other peaks that reach over 6,000m. This area is the premier spot in Peru for climbing and trekking, and it is somewhere that will appeal to experienced mountaineers and adventurers. The striking scenery really takes the breath away! But it is not just the climbing that attracts visitors as there are ever increasing opportunities for other adventure sports such as white-water rafting, mountain biking and rock climbing. And if you are not an extreme climber don’t worry, as the extraordinary scenery will also appeal to those who don’t have any climbing experience. The region is perfect for day walks and leisurely strolls, so whatever your ability, put Huaraz on your list and enjoy this hidden away region.

These are just some of the great things to be explored if you venture north and away from the more traditional sites around Cusco. It is not a region that gets a lot of visitors, so take advantage of the lack of crowds and enjoy some of the lesser know parts of Peru. If you fancy something a bit different, with great colonial towns, archaeological sites and beaches, the north of Peru may just be for you!

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Peru’s White City: A Weekend in Arequipa

By Emily Guilmette, Kuoda Travel
Dear Kuoda Friends and Family,

A short while ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Peru’s “Ciudad Blanca!” My weekend in Arequipa was just lovely, and so I’d like to share my experience with you in the hope that you’ll be able to visit vicariously now and in reality soon!

The second largest city in Peru, Arequipa feels peaceful and genteel. The architecture is beautiful – low buildings of bare white stone or coated in colorful paint, primarily Spanish baroque in style, with local touches – the air is soft and the people are friendly. While there were pre-Incan and Incan settlements here before the Spanish arrived in 1540, there is little trace of them in the current city. As a result, you often feel more like you’re in Europe than in the Andes. Our President, Mery, noted that Arequipa is a wonderful place to sit, have a cup of coffee and relax, and I think this is a perfect summation of the ease you feel as you explore.

We arrived quite early on a beautiful Saturday morning. In fact, one of the more marvelous things about Arequipa is its climate – dry and sunny most of the year round, with cool nights in June, July and August. This meant that flowering vines splashed color and Spanish mystique in public squares and half-hidden courtyards as I strolled through the center of town, trying to decide whether I should wear my sunglasses or keep them off to take it all in.

Our first stop, before we even checked in to our little hotel, was the beautiful main plaza. Designated a UNESCO world-heritage site in 2000, Arequipa’s plaza is a colonial-era masterpiece, lined with arched colonades and bounded on one side by the cathedral with its refined facade and delicate spires reaching toward the sky. In the center of the plaza is a three-tiered fountain surrounded by palm trees.

As we had made our way there before nine in the morning, we had the pleasure of sitting in relative tranquility, listening to the splashing fountain and watching a dog gleefully chasing pigeons. The sun shone and the buildings sparkled.

This is because, of course, the primary building material in much of central Arequipa is a stone called sillar. White or rose, with a pearly sheen, this volcanic rock was used in the construction of many of the city’s buildings in the 17th and 18th centuries. The color of the rock gives the city its nickname – “the white city.” Quite soft and easy to work, sillar allowed architects to execute incredible carvings and it takes paint pigment quite well, so painted buildings have a rich color.

As we sat and took it all in, the city seemed to come alive – children playing in the plaza, bikers kitted out in their spandex spinning through (the area around Arequipa is great for outdoor activity and it is a wonderful jumping-off point for exploring Colca Canyon), women selling candies from old-fashioned boxes slung around their necks. We enjoyed leisurely cups of coffee and then headed for our hotel.

A ten-minute stroll from the Plaza de Armas, Casa de Melgar’s sillar facade is undistinguished. But, once you pass through the front door, you enter a magical labyrinth. The hotel consists of one or two old mansions, laced together with low passageways, plant-filled courtyards and gardens. Our room was simply furnished, but boasted beautiful floor to ceiling windows that made me feel like a white-gowned owner of an old-time hacienda. This small hotel offers a wonderful value for the money and is well-situated for Arequipa’s primary attractions and best restaurants.

We devoted the rest of the day to a visit to the Santa Catalina Monastery. This was the highlight of the weekend for me! If you are close to Arequipa, you must, must go!

In the center of the city, covering several blocks, this monastery has provided cloistered sanctuary for nuns since 1579. In the 60s it was opened to the public and the remaining handful of nuns moved into a modern building hidden from visitors. The old structure is a sillar building with winding passageways, peaceful courtyards with beautiful plants and bare apartments where the nuns lived. It feels ancient, steeped in history and somehow magical. Entering is like finding the door to the secret garden or stepping through the looking glass. You feel calm fall over you as you pass under an arch carved with the word, “silencio.”

Called “a city within a city,” the convent has its streets and different architectural styles – the result of rebuilding after the city’s many earthquakes. Many of the nuns came from wealthy families, so while their apartments were extremely simple (rooms for themselves with one or two chairs, a wall niche with a bed, a simple table, crosses), they also brought beautiful china and textiles with them and, at one point, the convent housed more servants than actual nuns.

Walls in the convent are brightly painted, either in brick red, french blue or bright white, and climbing plants add charm. The enormous Misti Volcanoe rises in the distance. We wandered for hours before stopping in the excellent cafe for Inka Colas and passionfruit cake and making our way to the exit. The convent is also open during week nights and we’ve heard that, lit by candles, it is magical.

In the evening, we tested Gaston Acurio’s Arequipa branch of Chicha, where we enjoyed excellent drinks and some of Arequipa’s delicious crawfish (or camarone). This is a specialty of the region and I highly recommend sampling a chupe de camarones (a creamy-spicy soup with crawfish and rice) during your visit. A word to the wise: Arequipa is hopping on Saturday night! Make sure to have dinner reservations.

On Sunday, we woke bright and early and made our way to the Plaza de Armas, where we found the city in full-swing celebration of its patrimony! In 2011, Arequipa turned 471 this year, we were told! We threaded through dancers, paraders and revelers and arrived one block past the Plaza de Armas at the Catholic University’s Andean Sanctuary Museum.

This is the home of the ice-mummy, Juanita. Discovered on the top of Mount Ampato in 1995, Juanita was a noble Incan girl sacrificed between 1450 and 1480 in order to end a drought or famine. Her body, and those of two younger children, was offered to the Incan gods and buried on the mountain top. Due to the freezing conditions, Juanita remains in incredibly good condition with skin, hair and clothes intact. This small museum is wholly devoted to her life, death and discovery and is incredibly moving. For example, the cloak of an older man, probably her father, was buried with her and is on display. As are her shoes. And, Juanita herself is there, in a cooling case. The museum tour is about an hour and I highly, highly recommend it. For me it made the Incan past come to life, more than anything I have seen in the rest of Peru.

We spent our afternoon relaxing and strolling before visiting the lovely suburb of Yanahuara for a view of the Misti Volcanoe and then heading home, very satisfied, to Cusco!

I hope you enjoy my small photo album from the trip and please feel free to email me with any questions about travel in Arequipa (emily@kuodatravel.com).

Best wishes to all!
Emily

Machu Picchu at 100: Expert Christopher Heaney Answers Our Questions About Hiram Bingham.

By Emily Guilmette, Kuoda Travel
Dear Kuoda Friends and Family,

On July 24, Peru marks 100 years since Hiram Bingham, a Yale professor sponsored by the National Geographic Society, came upon the vine-covered ruins. Bingham and his team, with the approval of the contemporary Peruvian government, cleared the site, excavated and presented Machu Picchu to the world in high romantic style (you can read Bingham´s original National Geographic piece about the discovery and browse his incredible photos here). They also brought thousands of artifacts home for study, thus initiating 100 years of conflict.

Since that long-ago July, Bingham has been heralded as a hero and reviled as a looter. He has become known as the “scientific discoverer” of Machu Picchu as it has become clear that other visitors, Peruvian and foreign, gazed on those ancient stones prior to his arrival. Peru has hotly demanded the artifacts and cooled off when other matters pressed the nation. Attitudes about cultural patrimony have dramatically shifted. Ideas about what Machu Picchu was have changed.

Most spectacularly, Peru sued Yale for the Machu Picchu artifacts and won a victory that brought the vast majority of them home to Cusco this year.

Today, thousands of people flock to Peru to marvel at what has become a new wonder of the world. They surely contemplate the Inca stones and consider the ancient lives that were lived there. And on the eve of the anniversary of Machu Picchu´s introduction to the world, it is fitting to consider the more recent history of this special place. It speaks to the complex patrimony of Peru and its complicated relationship with its indigenous past and present. It covers nation-building in South America and the tense relationship with the United States. And, it addresses modern questions about the ownership of culture.

To help us sort through some of this, I called in Christopher Heaney, who graciously offered to answer some questions about the discovery of Machu Picchu.

Chris is a scholar of Latin American history and has trained his detailed researcher´s eye on the conflict between Yale and Peru. His investigation, both in Cusco and at Yale, resulted in an incredibly compelling book – The Cradle of Gold – that offers the best explanation of how the conflict between the university and the country came about. You can find the book (highly recommended!) on Amazon, and you can read an excerpt and learn more about Chris here.

And now, without further ado, THE INTERVIEW!

Who was Hiram Bingham and how did he come to be searching for Machu Picchu in 1911?
“Hiram Bingham was an archaeologist from Yale University, in the United States. Born in 1875, he was a missionary’s son, righteous, driven, curious, and, according to many, rather superior in nature. Because teaching wasn’t exciting enough for him he began exploring in South America, retracing the footsteps of history. A chance visit to Choqquequirau, the Cradle of Gold, 1909, introduced him to Inca history and from then on he was hooked. What he was looking for in 1911, when he went searching, were the last cities of the Incas, where the last emperors tried to resist the Spanish conquest. Before he could make their acquaintance, however, he was lead to Machu Picchu.”

Are we accurate when we say Bingham “discovered” Machu Picchu?
“Bingham was hardly the first to make it to Machu Picchu. For one, it was a piece of property owned by Inca families long after the conquest. After independence, it grew a little more remote, but a series of landowners and Europeans likely made it there in the late nineteenth century. Moreover, it was certainly known and visited by residents of the region, many of them of indigenous descent, who wrote their names on its walls. And, of course, when Bingham was led to the site by an innkeeper from the Urubamba below, there were three indigenous families living and farming in the ruins. So Hiram Bingham hardly discovered the ruins – but as many Peruvians have noted since as early as 1912, he was the site’s “scientific discoverer,” promoting its study and fame in the outside world. He also deserves praise for following the trail of the Incas well past Machu Picchu to the true last cities of their emperors.”

How have the perceptions of what Bingham did in Peru changed over the years?
“When Bingham first announced the existence of Machu Picchu, Peruvians in Cusco and Lima celebrated his achievement. But they were also wary, worried that Bingham and his Yale Peruvian Expedition would come back and excavate, which they did, kicking off a century long dispute over the ownership of the artifacts of Machu Picchu. Hiram Bingham himself has gone through different phases of appreciation, but Peruvians today are clear-eyed about what he gave – a platform for Machu Picchu’s fame and study – and what he took away – the contents of nearly 170 pre-Columbian graves, among many other artifacts.”

How have perceptions of Machu Picchu changed since Bingham first published about it in National Geographic? What do we know now, that Bingham didn´t know then?
“Bingham believed that Machu Picchu was not only the birthplace of the Incas, but their grave as well, the last city where they went to die. We now know he was mistaken on both counts, perhaps enchanted by the possibility of such a good story. Instead, we know that Bingham himself reached the last cities of the Incas (Vilcabamba), further downriver, but discounted their importance because they weren’t as beautiful as Machu Picchu. We also know that Machu Picchu was likely built in the mid-15th century by the Inca emperor and architect Pachacutec, as a spiritual and royal retreat outside of Cusco, the Incas’ capital. It was also a key gateway to the eastern slopes of the Andes, rich in tropical produce. Research, however, is ongoing, and scholars are always coming up with new and interesting interpretations.”

How did Peru and Yale come to disagree over the ownership of the artifacts from Machu Picchu? And how was this disagreement resolved?
“The question hinged on whether Peru had only let the artifacts leave for Yale on the condition that they return someday. The archives show that they did, that Peru had had the foresight to claim the artifacts and call for Bingham and Yale to respect the claim. For nearly a century, Yale refused, until a public lawsuit and a savvy media campaign last October and November brought Yale back to the negotiating table. By the end of 1912, all of the artifacts that Hiram Bingham exported from Machu Picchu will go back to Peru.”

Why is it important for Peru and the world to mark the 100 years since this particular discovery of Machu Picchu?
“Because it is far more important than the story of a single explorer hacking through jungle to reach a lost city. Rather, it’s the story of how countless Peruvians and foreigners have come together over the last century to celebrate one of the great wonders of the world, make it known, study and protect it, and even sometimes fight over it. Machu Picchu is one of world’s great cultural and architectural treasures, awakening us to the beauty of indigenous culture and history, and demanding that we care for its future. The first century of Machu Picchu’s fame is over; the next century is about to begin, likely even more glorious than its last.”

Thanks so very much, Chris!

And to all of you, best wishes from Cusco!
Emily

Kuoda Travel Off the Beaten Track: Visit to Queswachaca Bridge

By Emily Guilmette, Kuoda Travel
Dear Kuoda Friends and Family,

Our day-long adventure took us South (photos at the end of the post!), zipping with our chatty driver out of the historic center of Cusco. We passed the city’s more modern urban areas, watching locals hurry about their daily business and hankering for a stop in one of the many “pollerias,” where spicy rotisserie chicken is served dripping and with avocado. We sped through the small towns just outside of Cusco that each specialize in a type of food. For example, one is famous for its bread; one for its “cuy” – guinea pigs. (Food, as you can see, is plentiful and excellent in Cusco.)

Shortly, we emerged into the more agricultural part of the valley where golden fields stretched out on either side of the road before bumping into the bases of the mountains that hump up suddenly like dusty green whales. While Cusco has started to climb up the peaks that surround it, outside of the city the mountains are untouched and tend to hem in the flats spaces. The less civilization surrounds you, the larger they seem.

We skimmed along the winding road that now followed a wide shallow river reflecting the incredible blue of the sky and only slowed for the speed bumps in the middle of small towns. We waved at the children herding llamas and sheep and honked the horn at the dogs that insisted in ambling in front of our car.

As the day went on, the towns became smaller and quieter and dustier, with mud-brick buildings hugging silent plazas. In the last – proudly proclaiming itself the birthplace of the revolutionary Tupac Amaru – we left comfortable roads behind and began to rattle our way up into the mountains. Some villagers had told us the bridge was half an hour away. Others said an hour and a half. In the Andes (as in my small Vermont home town) many things are “just over the next hill.”

Our driver, undaunted, turned on his eighties mix and we kept climbing up out of the valley, singing along with Madonna. When we reached the top, I gasped at the distance and sense of space that overwhelmed us. The high altiplano stretched away in all directions. The blue of the sky, the yellow and brown of the earth, stone… this simple palette created a sense of wonder.

Now and again, a small house surrounded by fields and stone corrals for sheep and llamas emerged from the landscape. We sometimes saw people in the distance stacking small tents of hay. And then, just when the shaking of the car and largeness of the country became too much, a crevice seemed to open in the earth and the glint of the Apurimac River appeared.

We descended endless switchbacks (a bit harrowing, as guardrails are rare here) until we finally parked along the side of the road in the midst of what was a local party.

Each year in the beginning of June, the communities in this area come together to weave a hanging bridge in the Incan style. There is a perfectly serviceable modern bridge crossing the Apurimac a stone’s throw away, but the tradition is so beloved that it is enthusiastically continued. In fact, each community must contribute a certain length of rope and during the weekend of the construction, a mayor takes attendance. Failure to attend means a fine! Yet, with incredible sunshine, laughter and a bit of beer, it certainly didn’t seem like an event anyone would want to miss.

All attendees dress in colorful traditional clothing and people of every age participate. The first day of the celebration is spent gathering the grasses (a very strong local variety) and weaving them into the ropes for the bridge. Much of this work is done by the women. The next two days are spent constructing the bridge and much of this is done by the men. In fact, the women aren’t allowed near the bridge until it is complete.

On each side of the river, ancient stone staircases descend steeply to stone footings for the bridge. Thick lengths of rope are strung across the gap with men from one community working on one side and men from another community on the other side. When enough ropes have been passed across to form the floor of the bridge and the handrails, brave fellows sit astride the ropes and begin weaving them together. They seem completely oblivious to the drop below as they inch forward.

With the smell of cooking smoke in the air, the shouts of the workers, music from rehearsals of dances, and the constant arrival of new recruits on motorbikes, it was truly an event unlike anything I’ve seen. The sense of community and tradition was so palpable and the landscape so lovely and rugged.

What is appealing about Peru is that it is still a large country with many places relatively untouched by tourism: we were among the very very few “tourists” watching the building of this glorious bridge. Travel allows us to step outside of ourselves, to learn about new places and people and return home with fresh perspective. And for this reason, I encourage all of you traveling to this wonderful country to take the opportunity to visit a small community; to go beyond the tourist track; to meet the local people; and to find a way to do all of this sustainably and with little negative impact.

Please feel to ask me more about this fabulous day-trip from Cusco! emily@kuodatravel.com.

Best wishes,
Emily and the Kuoda Team