Category Archive: People and Culture

March 8th, 2013
post by Tom | | Closed

Peruvian Potatoes!

Forget Machu Picchu, what Peru is really famous for is potatoes. And although 100% of people who come to this country probably pick the famous Incan citadel over that most delicious food, the potatoes here are worth the plane ticket alone. They are an incredibly important part of life, particularly in the Andean region, and have been ever since the Incan’s made Cusco their capital in the 15th century. They turn up in practically every dish, and a meal that already has rice is no barrier to chucking on a potato or two. Simply put, a meal without potatoes is not a meal at all. This is perhaps not great news for those calorie counters out there, but if you can forget about your fear of carbohydrates for a few days, you can enjoy one of Peru’s most important exports to the full. You will come away a fully-fledged potato head.

South America is the birth place of the potato, and although the exact origin is unknown, I’m going go with Peru. Seems like the obvious option. Potatoes were domesticated here as early as 10,000 years ago, and the vegetable has played a vital part in life ever since. Over the centuries potatoes developed from being a bitter vegetable containing dangerous toxins, to being the staple food of the local people and the main energy source for early Peruvian cultures. It is believed that the Spanish conquerors took the vegetable back to Europe with them and the Western love affair began in earnest. But whereas we in England have only been enjoying the delights of the potato for 400 years, the Peruvians have a much longer history with the food, and consequently it is tied up with their cultural and culinary identity. They are proud to be the fathers of the vegetable and it is as important today as it ever was.

Nowadays, potatoes can be found everywhere, and the section in any market where they are sold is a sight to behold. As a London boy, I would like to think I am fairly familiar with the humble spud, and have always counted it as one of my favorite foods. There is something so comforting about a potato and there is nothing better than a freshly baked Maris Piper on a cold winter’s night. But any illusions I had of expertise were dashed when I arrived to Peru, with the realization that I only recognized about 3 of the countless varieties on offer here. For Peru has a frankly ridiculous 3,500 varieties of potato.Now that may seem unbelievable, but taking a walk along any market in Cusco you will realize how easily you could arrive at such a mind-blowing number. There are big potatoes, small potatoes, potatoes that resemble those you can buy at home, and then potatoes that you could only picture in science fiction films. Looking at the vibrant greens, reds, and purples you will wonder if they can possibly be potatoes. They look more like…well, I don’t know what. Something pretty strange. The majority are not quite so odd though and there are just loads of different variations on the more traditional potato, coming in all sorts of weird shapes and sizes. This great variety brings with it different tastes, and if you ever thought a potato is a potato is a potato, think again. You would be amazed how different they can taste, and with years of experience to go on the chefs and cooks in Cusco have learned how to use each different potato and bring out its individual qualities. They are masters of using this humble vegetable and its appearance in practically every dish is no surprise. They just taste so good.

Today’s culture in certain countries seems to be a bit afraid of the potato, and the evil calories it hides within its smooth, yellowy surface. Not so in Peru. Here the potato is a vital staple and is important to the daily lives of many people in the Andean region of the country. After living here for over two years I am still not bored of it, and I am now getting to the stage where if I see a plate of food without a spud, I am liable to lose it and refuse to eat. A meal is not a meal without at least one potato, and Peru is the vegetable’s spiritual home. Spend some time here and you will wonder how you ever lived without your daily dose of starchy carbohydrate.

People and Culture, Peruvian Cuisine , , ,
February 5th, 2013
post by Tom | | 1

Carnival!

Here in South America the early months of the year bring with it ‘Carnival’, some of the world’s biggest mass celebrations. Traditionally a part of the Catholic religion, Carnival is thought to have originated as a way to dispose of rich food and drink before the beginning of Lent. The best way to prepare for a period of fasting and abstinence was to have a huge party and enjoy everything that was forbidden during Lent. Must have been some party. Although Lent is not so strictly observed nowadays the traditions of carnival still remain, particularly in South America. Nobody parties quite like the South Americans and the month of February has become the time for everyone to cut loose and enjoy life!

The most famous of these celebrations is without doubt in Brazil and the country has become synonymous with Carnival and famous for putting on the biggest, most lavish, and most spectacular parties and parades. Known as ‘one of the biggest shows on earth’, the Rio de Janeiro carnival is the first on everyone’s list and the best example of the celebrations at this time. It is a real expression of Brazilian culture and centers on the organized and surprisingly professional samba schools that use the parades to showcase their craft. It is exhilarating to witness and the energy of the place is palpable as you wander the streets watching incredible performance after incredible performance. There is nothing quite like it and you will not want the morning to come! Although Rio de Janeiro is the most famous of all the South American parties the northern city of Salvador is also a huge draw. Different from the Rio version, the Salvador carnival showcases all sorts of local bands playing traditional music of the region and it makes a fantastic counterpoint to the festivities in Rio. If you can, try and get to both carnivals to experience the very best of South American party culture!

The Bolivian carnival is also one of the continent’s most famous, and is particularly good in the city of Oruro. The carnival celebrated here mixes Catholic traditions with indigenous culture and beliefs to come up with something really unique. It is a place full of color and noise and really gives Brazil a run for its money, and may in fact better its more famous cousin. The centerpiece of the carnival is a huge parade which runs from early morning until late at night with dozens of groups singing, dancing and generally having a good time. The costumes are really something to behold and along the 5-kilometer long course you will see all sorts of weird and wonderful characters from demons and devils, to Incas and Spanish conquerors. So much time and effort goes into these costumes, as well as the dancing and music that you cannot fail to be impressed. In all there are over 28,000 dancers, 150 bands playing all sorts of fantastic music and 400,000 visitors stretching over four miles. So it is quite a big deal!

Compared to Bolivia and Brazil, Peru rather lags behind in the Carnival celebrations and although the city of Cajamarca has some intriguing traditions, parties and customs, the country is more known for just throwing water over each other! This may sound strange, and to be honest it is, as whereas other countries go in for huge street parties, the people of Peru prefer to just get together for water games. This means that during the month of February families and friends can be found with water bombs, hoses, and buckets and spend whole days running around wetting each other. Pretty odd. I have no idea where this tradition came from, but when you see the street parties in Rio and fabulous costumes in Oruro throwing a water balloon at someone doesn’t seem quite so much fun! I remember a story of a tourist who was visiting Peru for the first time, and happened to arrive to Cusco during the middle of February. He had no idea about this bizarre tradition and so when he was wandering down one of the narrow streets, admiring the architecture, he was more than a little surprised to be hit by a cascade of water. The locals had seen him coming and had then proceeded to throw a bucket of water over his head from two stories up. Quite a welcome on your first day in a new city. Thankfully this no longer happens and it is safe to wander the streets in February once again!

Of course there are other celebrations throughout the continent, and indeed the world, but you can’t really go wrong with Brazil and Bolivia. Peru is a fabulous place to visit for all sorts of reasons but Carnival probably isn’t one of them, and it is not known for its parties and processions at this time. But if you are feeling hot and fancy some water games, Peru is for you! February and March are some of the most vibrant and exciting times to visit certain parts of South America, and if you want the best carnival experience possible, put Brazil and Bolivia on your list.

Festivals, People and Culture , , ,
January 25th, 2013
post by franklin | | 8

The Pisco Sour!

Next Saturday is Pisco Sour day here in Peru, so for all those who haven’t tried this fantastic cocktail, now is the time! Although its origin is hotly disputed with Chile, the Pisco Sour has become a symbol of Peru and Peruvian national identity and is as closely linked with the country as ceviche. Pisco itself is a very strong grape brandy produced in the Pisco and Ica region of Peru just south of Lima, and is an acquired taste that certainly takes some getting used to. But by adding lime juice, sugar and a few other ingredients you can come up with something really special!

Now ubiquitous in bars not just in Peru but all around the world, the Pisco Sour originated in Lima in the early 1920’s when an American bartender, Victor Vaughn Morris, stumbled across the concoction. Morris had lived in Peru for decades, and his bar, popular with the moneyed classes and foreigners, was renowned for experimentation and always surprising regulars with new, bold drinks. This spirit of experimentation led Morris to devise a variation of the Whiskey Sour, using the local liquor, Pisco. The story goes that one night in 1922 Morris surprised his friends with a new drink he called Pisco Sour that fused Peruvian Pisco with the American sour, and needless to say the bar guests went home pretty happy! No records exist of the Pisco Sour recipe that Morris used but we do know that the drink went through various changes before a final recipe was settled upon. As an experienced cocktail maker and perfectionist Morris worked tirelessly to better what he had and regular visitors to the bar at the time commented on the continuously improving taste of the drink. He knew he was onto a good thing and began to advertise his new drink all around town, attracting more and more people to his bar. The Pisco Sour became its signature drink, and soon the bar was filling up with ever increasing numbers of people all raving about the ‘white-colored beverage.’ Inevitably other bars began to see the success Morris was having and introduced their own copy-cat versions of the Pisco Sour which, coupled with the owner’s failing health, led the bars fortunes to decline. But Morris’s legacy stands today and he will no doubt have been delighted to see just how popular his drink has become.

This story is generally accepted as the origin of the Pisco Sour, although there are many people who dispute it, particularly from Chile. There are various stories from that side of the border about where the drink actually came from but I’m sticking to the story of Morris’s bar!

Wherever it came from the Pisco Sour is undoubtedly a delicious drink, and that is all that really matters. Ever the patriots, the Chilean and Peruvian versions differ, but the one popular in Lima and Cusco is the one I know and is made by mixing Peruvian Pisco with lime juice, sugar syrup, egg white, Angostura bitters for garnish and ice cubes. The egg white is a very important component, and although it means you have to be a bit careful at what kind of places you buy a Pisco Sour, it also gives the drink a delicious white froth. It is a refreshing drink that has a tart, sharp kick to it, and gets better the more you have! The Angostura gives it a pleasantly bitter aftertaste and the Pisco adds the alcoholic kick to the sweetness of the sugar and the refreshing sharpness of the lime juice. It is just a perfect mix and one that has been honed and refined ever since its inception in 1922. We have now reached the point of the perfect Pisco Sour, and it is by far the best way to drink the local liquor.

Variations exist on the Pisco Sour and it is now common to find Mango Sours, Passionfruit Sours, and basically any other fruit you can think of. But the Pisco Sour is the original and best, so why not try one on the first Saturday in February and celebrate Pisco Sour day in style!

People and Culture, Peruvian Cuisine , , ,
January 11th, 2013
post by Kuoda Travel | | Closed

Canyon Country

Arequipa is one of Peru’s most popular destinations, and this has much to do with the beauty of the nearby canyon country. At just a few hours’ drive from Arequipa the canyons of Colca and Cotahuasi are easily accessible and offer endless opportunities for trekking, hiking, rafting, and generally exploring another side of Peru. The amount of different landscapes and ecosystems that Peru possesses is really incredible, and the canyon country definitely has a claim to be the most strikingly beautiful.

Colca Canyon is the most famous and widely visited area in the region, and not without reason. In fact it is Peru’s third most visited tourist destination with 12,000 visitors annually. Popularly known as the world’s deepest canyon, this is in fact not the case, but it is still more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States. So that’s pretty deep. And the landscape you are greeted with on arrival is spectacular, populated with snow-topped volcanoes, ancient ruins, waterfalls, hot springs, and all sorts of other natural wonders. The area is dotted with fascinating little towns to explore, as well as native alpacas, vicuñas, and llamas, and there are chances to hit heights of around 4,000m. The climate at such an altitude can be pretty harsh, but as you struggle for breath you will certainly have a big sense of achievement! This unforgettable scenery makes it the perfect spot for hiking and there are some of the best opportunities in the whole country to get amongst nature and enjoy some fresh air. The hiking can be as difficult or easy as you like, and depending on your level of fitness and experience, there are all sorts of options to allow you to get out of the car and enjoy the landscape close up. Of course, this is all well and good, but the real attraction for most people is the chance to catch a glimpse of the Andean Condor, a majestic bird with a wingspan in excess of 3 meters. The Colca area is where these birds thrive and certain points along the canyon are perfect for seeing this impressive animal in flight. It is necessary to rise early and get to the spot at around 7am as this is when the condors begin their morning hunt, soaring majestically over the deep ravine searching for prey. If you’re lucky the birds will swoop close to the viewing point offering once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunities.

Although the Colca Canyon gets the majority of attention, the more remote Cotahuasi Canyon is for those who want something a bit more off-the-beaten-track. Here you will not find the large tour groups arriving to see the condor, and instead will get the chance to explore the world’s deepest canyon and its lush, fertile valley, in peace. The Grand Canyon has nothing on Cotahuasi, as it is around twice as deep as its American cousin. Now that really is deep. The landscape could be characterized as a bit more rugged than Colca, making it that little bit more impressive and an even bigger draw for hikers. As in Colca, here there are loads of opportunities for treks of all lengths, but the area lends itself more to those with a bit of experience who are looking for a trek of 4 days or more. And to really make the most of the region, the more days the better. Cotahuasi is also famous for its rafting, and nothing else in Peru compares to it. There are some great rafting trips in the Sacred Valley area but the Cotahuasi River takes the crown as the country’s best, and includes stretches with class IV and V rapids. With trips of up to nine days it is an area for the hardcore rafters amongst you! A real adventure activity, the river takes you through the deepest sections of the canyon, with incredibly fast white water, and it is probably not for the faint hearted! Aside from the natural beauty and great trekking and rafting opportunities, the canyon is also home to numerous traditional settlements, relatively untouched by modern life. The canyon is a particularly remote part of Peru, so these communities rarely see visitors and it is a chance to get to know a side of Peru that still conserves all the old traditions.

The Canyon Country around Arequipa is one of the most striking areas of Peru, and showcases the incredible natural diversity that exists in the country. It is a very popular destination but there are lots of opportunities to get away from civilization and enjoy some hiking and rafting instead of simply following the tourist trail. And of course, it is the only place to see the incredible condor up close!

People and Culture, Peru Travel, Uncategorized , , ,
January 8th, 2013
post by Kuoda Travel | | Closed

Things to do in Peru in 2013

A new year is upon us and what better way to celebrate surviving the end of the world in December, than by planning your next trip! Peru has endless options for the coming year, and here are just some of the highlights to whet your appetite and get you dreaming of that perfect vacation:

Enjoy Inti Raymi

A perennial favorite, Inti Raymi returns in June, as it does every year. As popular with locals as it is with tourists this festival always provides a truly memorable spectacle and a chance to learn more about the culture and history of Cusco. One of the most important ancient festivals in the Incan culture, Inti Raymi takes place in the Main Square and the ruins of Sacsayhuamán, and was traditionally a way to honor the God Inti (Sun God). It is still observed to this day throughout the Andean region, but it is most impressive in Cusco where the parade and ceremony are really something to behold. It involves music, dance, color, and food, and is all those South American parades you have seen on TV times 10! Held every year on June 24th, 2013 is your chance to see this truly unique event.

Join the Peruvian food revolution

With each passing day Peruvian food seems to get more and more popular, and news is always reaching us of Peruvian restaurants opening up all over the world. In fact Gaston Acurio, the world-renowned Peruvian chef, has just announced plans to add to his ever-growing empire, by launching a restaurant in Chicago. Of course, the best place to go for Peruvian food will always be the country itself, and the number of great restaurants will only increase throughout the coming year. Lima is the center of this movement but as more people travel to Peru with the specific goal of eating as much fantastic food as possible, Cusco, Arequipa and other cities are joining the party. So 2013 is the perfect chance to get on board and make the most of all the incredible restaurants, cafes, and eateries that are continually opening up across the country. It is a true food revolution and will only get better and more widespread throughout this year and beyond.

Treat yourself in some of the best hotels

Now is the time to really treat yourselves and book that fantastic hotel that you have always had your eye on. 2013 promises to be a great year for hotels, as existing properties strive to improve their service, and new places open up. Peru is renowned for its hotels and some of the very best places in the whole of South America can be found here. I am thinking particularly of hotels such as Monasterio and La Casona in Cusco, Miraflores Park in Lima, and Sanctuary Lodge at Machu Picchu all just waiting to welcome you! As Peru has become more and more of a draw for travelers the standards of hotels have increased and now the options open to you for top class accommodation are endless. Each city and area has a wealth of great hotels, to satisfy all tastes and budgets, and there was never a better time to come and enjoy the cream of the crop in world hotels.

Relax on the beaches of Mancora

Although it has greatly increased in popularity since its days as a small fishing village, Mancora is still something of a hidden gem for the majority of visitors to Peru. A quaint little beach town, with delightful cafes, shacks, and hotels enjoying incredible sea views, not to mention its beautiful white sand beach, Mancora is the perfect place to relax for a few days. It is also world famous for its waves, and so perfect for all you surfers out there, and is just a lovely way to get to know another side of Peru. Get away from the hectic, busy cities, and the ancient history and ruins, and enjoy a bit of rest and relaxation on a perfect Pacific beach. Perhaps even enjoy some surfing!

Discover Chachapoyas and Kuelap

The area of Chachapoyas is truly one of the last hidden gems in Peru, and is an area almost completely untouched by tourists. When we talk about off-the-beaten track experiences this is what we mean! Set in the northern interior a few hours from the city of Chiclayo, the area was once home to the Chachapoyas civilization, one of the last kingdoms to fall to the Incas. The region is littered with fascinating ruins, trails, tombs, and all manner of uncovered treasures, of which the jewel in the crown is Kuelap. Famous amongst those who have visited it as being more impressive than Machu Picchu this defensive fortress is perched on the shoulder of a 10,000 foot mountain, and is an extensive urban complex dating back to the 9th century. Truly out of the way and unexplored this is your chance to make like Indiana Jones and wander through the homes, palaces, and temples found in this impressive complex! Get here before the world wakes up to Chachapoyas!

 

People and Culture, Peru Travel , , ,
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