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Summer in Peru

January in Cusco and the Andean region of Peru means rain, rain, and more rain. When I tell people that I live in South America they immediately mention the beaches and the hot weather, and look pretty disappointed when I tell them that I live at an altitude of 3,300m and that during the South American ‘summer’ I can look forward to rain almost every day! It doesn’t really fit with the picture they have of South America. But this is not the case all over Peru, and as Cusco soaks, Lima and the coast enjoys scorching weather. Much more like those pictures you will have seen of South American beach fun! This is the time to hit the coast and enjoy the sun, sea, and sand and get away from the wet of Cusco.

During most of the year Lima can be a bit of a dull, grey place, and is actually quite reminiscent of London. Although there is no rain, opening up your curtains in the morning to be greeted by nothing but overcast skies and dejected faces, you could almost be in Oxford Street! But the summer months of December, January and February bring with them beautiful sunshine and hot weather and you can feel the lift in spirits amongst the people and the change in atmosphere of the city. It goes from being dreary London to sunny Miami! Of course the city has its problems, the sheer volume of traffic and people being the most obvious, and these can often be magnified by the heat but in summer you have the opportunity to get away to the sea or wander some of the quieter neighborhoods. There is nothing better than to escape the congested center and take a walk around the cool, cosmopolitan barrios of Miraflores and Barranco in blistering sunshine. It gives a whole new sheen to the place and brightens up your day, both literally and meteorically. And then there is the sea, always much nicer to look at on a sunny day. Sit back and relax in one of the numerous coffee shops and restaurants that litter the seafront and enjoy some of the best views over the Pacific Ocean. You could even take part in some paragliding if you are so inclined, as a sunny day really lends itself to leaping off a cliff!

But Lima is not the only place to benefit in these months, and it is now when the Northern coastal area really comes into its own. I am particularly thinking about Mancora, one of the little secrets of Peru’s coast. Although it’s not too much of a secret anymore! Peru is more known for its ruins and colonial cities, and if you want beaches and relaxation the received wisdom is that Brazil is the place to go. However, this neglects Mancora, which is increasingly making Peru a destination for people who are not interested in the Inca’s and just want sea and sun. As with most seaside towns, during the winter months Mancora winds down and morphs into something of a ghost town, meaning it is not ideal for a trip in June or July. In January though, the place comes alive, and it is now that you want to pack your bags and head out there. There are endless great hotels, catering for all tastes and budgets, and with the sun blazing and the sea warm and inviting, this is the perfect time to catch some rays! As you relax and enjoy the waves and the sand, you will certainly not be thinking about Cusco and its history, and will just want to enjoy this slice of Brazil up in the north of Peru.

So, people of Lima, spare a thought for us in Cusco enjoying days filled with rain, and more rain! Lima and the coast is a great place to visit any time of the year, but the summer brings with it some great weather, making the area that little bit more attractive to visit.

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Canyon Country

Arequipa is one of Peru’s most popular destinations, and this has much to do with the beauty of the nearby canyon country. At just a few hours’ drive from Arequipa the canyons of Colca and Cotahuasi are easily accessible and offer endless opportunities for trekking, hiking, rafting, and generally exploring another side of Peru. The amount of different landscapes and ecosystems that Peru possesses is really incredible, and the canyon country definitely has a claim to be the most strikingly beautiful.

Colca Canyon is the most famous and widely visited area in the region, and not without reason. In fact it is Peru’s third most visited tourist destination with 12,000 visitors annually. Popularly known as the world’s deepest canyon, this is in fact not the case, but it is still more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States. So that’s pretty deep. And the landscape you are greeted with on arrival is spectacular, populated with snow-topped volcanoes, ancient ruins, waterfalls, hot springs, and all sorts of other natural wonders. The area is dotted with fascinating little towns to explore, as well as native alpacas, vicuñas, and llamas, and there are chances to hit heights of around 4,000m. The climate at such an altitude can be pretty harsh, but as you struggle for breath you will certainly have a big sense of achievement! This unforgettable scenery makes it the perfect spot for hiking and there are some of the best opportunities in the whole country to get amongst nature and enjoy some fresh air. The hiking can be as difficult or easy as you like, and depending on your level of fitness and experience, there are all sorts of options to allow you to get out of the car and enjoy the landscape close up. Of course, this is all well and good, but the real attraction for most people is the chance to catch a glimpse of the Andean Condor, a majestic bird with a wingspan in excess of 3 meters. The Colca area is where these birds thrive and certain points along the canyon are perfect for seeing this impressive animal in flight. It is necessary to rise early and get to the spot at around 7am as this is when the condors begin their morning hunt, soaring majestically over the deep ravine searching for prey. If you’re lucky the birds will swoop close to the viewing point offering once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunities.

Although the Colca Canyon gets the majority of attention, the more remote Cotahuasi Canyon is for those who want something a bit more off-the-beaten-track. Here you will not find the large tour groups arriving to see the condor, and instead will get the chance to explore the world’s deepest canyon and its lush, fertile valley, in peace. The Grand Canyon has nothing on Cotahuasi, as it is around twice as deep as its American cousin. Now that really is deep. The landscape could be characterized as a bit more rugged than Colca, making it that little bit more impressive and an even bigger draw for hikers. As in Colca, here there are loads of opportunities for treks of all lengths, but the area lends itself more to those with a bit of experience who are looking for a trek of 4 days or more. And to really make the most of the region, the more days the better. Cotahuasi is also famous for its rafting, and nothing else in Peru compares to it. There are some great rafting trips in the Sacred Valley area but the Cotahuasi River takes the crown as the country’s best, and includes stretches with class IV and V rapids. With trips of up to nine days it is an area for the hardcore rafters amongst you! A real adventure activity, the river takes you through the deepest sections of the canyon, with incredibly fast white water, and it is probably not for the faint hearted! Aside from the natural beauty and great trekking and rafting opportunities, the canyon is also home to numerous traditional settlements, relatively untouched by modern life. The canyon is a particularly remote part of Peru, so these communities rarely see visitors and it is a chance to get to know a side of Peru that still conserves all the old traditions.

The Canyon Country around Arequipa is one of the most striking areas of Peru, and showcases the incredible natural diversity that exists in the country. It is a very popular destination but there are lots of opportunities to get away from civilization and enjoy some hiking and rafting instead of simply following the tourist trail. And of course, it is the only place to see the incredible condor up close!

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Things to do in Peru in 2013

A new year is upon us and what better way to celebrate surviving the end of the world in December, than by planning your next trip! Peru has endless options for the coming year, and here are just some of the highlights to whet your appetite and get you dreaming of that perfect vacation:

Enjoy Inti Raymi

A perennial favorite, Inti Raymi returns in June, as it does every year. As popular with locals as it is with tourists this festival always provides a truly memorable spectacle and a chance to learn more about the culture and history of Cusco. One of the most important ancient festivals in the Incan culture, Inti Raymi takes place in the Main Square and the ruins of Sacsayhuamán, and was traditionally a way to honor the God Inti (Sun God). It is still observed to this day throughout the Andean region, but it is most impressive in Cusco where the parade and ceremony are really something to behold. It involves music, dance, color, and food, and is all those South American parades you have seen on TV times 10! Held every year on June 24th, 2013 is your chance to see this truly unique event.

Join the Peruvian food revolution

With each passing day Peruvian food seems to get more and more popular, and news is always reaching us of Peruvian restaurants opening up all over the world. In fact Gaston Acurio, the world-renowned Peruvian chef, has just announced plans to add to his ever-growing empire, by launching a restaurant in Chicago. Of course, the best place to go for Peruvian food will always be the country itself, and the number of great restaurants will only increase throughout the coming year. Lima is the center of this movement but as more people travel to Peru with the specific goal of eating as much fantastic food as possible, Cusco, Arequipa and other cities are joining the party. So 2013 is the perfect chance to get on board and make the most of all the incredible restaurants, cafes, and eateries that are continually opening up across the country. It is a true food revolution and will only get better and more widespread throughout this year and beyond.

Treat yourself in some of the best hotels

Now is the time to really treat yourselves and book that fantastic hotel that you have always had your eye on. 2013 promises to be a great year for hotels, as existing properties strive to improve their service, and new places open up. Peru is renowned for its hotels and some of the very best places in the whole of South America can be found here. I am thinking particularly of hotels such as Monasterio and La Casona in Cusco, Miraflores Park in Lima, and Sanctuary Lodge at Machu Picchu all just waiting to welcome you! As Peru has become more and more of a draw for travelers the standards of hotels have increased and now the options open to you for top class accommodation are endless. Each city and area has a wealth of great hotels, to satisfy all tastes and budgets, and there was never a better time to come and enjoy the cream of the crop in world hotels.

Relax on the beaches of Mancora

Although it has greatly increased in popularity since its days as a small fishing village, Mancora is still something of a hidden gem for the majority of visitors to Peru. A quaint little beach town, with delightful cafes, shacks, and hotels enjoying incredible sea views, not to mention its beautiful white sand beach, Mancora is the perfect place to relax for a few days. It is also world famous for its waves, and so perfect for all you surfers out there, and is just a lovely way to get to know another side of Peru. Get away from the hectic, busy cities, and the ancient history and ruins, and enjoy a bit of rest and relaxation on a perfect Pacific beach. Perhaps even enjoy some surfing!

Discover Chachapoyas and Kuelap

The area of Chachapoyas is truly one of the last hidden gems in Peru, and is an area almost completely untouched by tourists. When we talk about off-the-beaten track experiences this is what we mean! Set in the northern interior a few hours from the city of Chiclayo, the area was once home to the Chachapoyas civilization, one of the last kingdoms to fall to the Incas. The region is littered with fascinating ruins, trails, tombs, and all manner of uncovered treasures, of which the jewel in the crown is Kuelap. Famous amongst those who have visited it as being more impressive than Machu Picchu this defensive fortress is perched on the shoulder of a 10,000 foot mountain, and is an extensive urban complex dating back to the 9th century. Truly out of the way and unexplored this is your chance to make like Indiana Jones and wander through the homes, palaces, and temples found in this impressive complex! Get here before the world wakes up to Chachapoyas!

 

Happy New Year from Cusco!

As in most parts of the world, New Year is one of the biggest celebrations of the year in Peru and basically consists of lots of drinking! However there is more to it than that and whereas in a lot of countries people will have the aim of getting as drunk as physically possible, in Peru there are numerous unique traditions that are observed throughout the country.

If you arrive in Cusco in the days leading up to New Year the first thing you will notice is the color that fills the streets. Everywhere little market stalls and street vendors sell all sorts of weird and wonderful things to help you celebrate the New Year, and color is a big part of this. The most popular color is yellow, symbolizing happiness and luck, but red, for love, and green, for money, are also available to those for whom happiness and luck are just not enough! The way to ensure you get what you want in the coming year is to buy some underwear in your chosen color and wear it proudly throughout the night of December 31st and into the New Year. Sounds a bit odd, but this underwear must be given to you by someone else, and you can’t simply buy yourself something. Somebody has to give you a piece of yellow underwear otherwise that happiness and luck will not be yours in the coming year! The streets are also full of other strange things that the superstitious people of Cusco always buy to ensure good things will come their way. You will see fake money, which people must put in their wallets and houses to ensure that the next year will be a prosperous one, along with candles of various colors (again depending on what you want from the coming year) that must be lit at midnight. These all come together to produce an amazing collage of colors and make the streets of Cusco a great place to explore at this time.

On the night itself, with the underwear on and all the other customs seen to, the people of Cusco head to the Plaza de Armas where the party really begins. It is a time to be with friends, share a few drinks and bring in the New Year together. Inevitably the clubs and bars around the plaza hike their prices right up, meaning that the vast majority spend the evening in the plaza itself, shunning the inflated prices of the bar owners, and braving the weather (this is the rainy season after all!). It all makes for an incredibly lively and festive atmosphere as big groups celebrate together, letting off fireworks, laughing, joking and generally having a good time. At midnight, with everyone suitably merry, the thousands strong crowd will start to walk (or run) around the plaza in a tradition that is a real sight to behold. What was traditionally meant to signify a desire to travel in the coming year has become an important part of the celebrations, and at the stroke of midnight everyone will start the ritual. As you go, you bump into all sorts of different people, from all walks of life, and it is a great way to see in the New Year, walking around the main square with seemingly the entire population of Cusco! And you may see people eating grapes as the go, signifying luck for the coming year. 12 grapes are eaten, one for each strike of the clock at midnight, meaning good luck for each month of the coming year. With all these rituals it is no wonder that cusqueñans always look so happy; they have nothing but luck, happiness, love, and travel each year!

In Cusco and Peru the celebrations of New Year mean a lot more than just getting well and truly plastered, and this most superstitious place has all sorts of weird customs that make the celebration really special. Of course if you want a good party, then Cusco is the place to come, but all the little things that go with it are what makes this time of year especially fascinating and enjoyable for visitors.

December- The Perfect Time to Visit Cusco!

The month of December is a fantastic time to visit Cusco, despite concerns you may have about the weather. The city is full of life, and is replete with color, noise, markets, and festivals, and has an atmosphere that is only really comparable to the months of June and July when the celebrations for the city, as well as the country’s independence, are held.

Cusco is famous throughout the country for its parties and the way it celebrates important events, and December, with the celebration of two of the most significant festivals (Christmas and New Year), allow you to experience some of this. Nobody parties like the cusqueñans and it is fantastic to be in the city as preparations begin for two of the year’s biggest fiestas! As you move out of the somewhat depressing month of November and into December, the city takes on a different atmosphere and you can almost feel the excitement in the air of the approaching end of year celebrations. November is a depressing month in any culture, with little to look forward, and the arrival of December is greeted with a palpable lifting of spirits throughout the world, nowhere more so than in Cusco. The city is full of markets with sellers hastily getting ready for the busy days leading up to the 25th, and you can find all sorts of crazy knick-knacks. It is the perfect time to buy those one-of-a-kind items that you won’t find anywhere else. Aside from the feel and atmosphere of the place you will also get to see and take part in the Christmas and New Year traditions on the other side for the world. Now I am a big lover of my own English Christmas, and missing three Christmases at home in a row has been tough, but seeing how another culture celebrates the festive season has been an incredible experience. As you wander through the city and observe how everyone gets ready for the 25th you will be extremely grateful for the opportunity to see how they do it down in South America! The city is full of life and incredibly vibrant during December, and particularly around Christmas itself, and is the perfect time to experience another side of Peruvian life and culture and immerse yourself in the city.

The weather is often seen to be the major drawback to visiting the country during December, and although it is true to say that we are now in the height of the rainy season, it should not put you off traveling at this time. It can be fairly depressing arriving in Peru to be greeted by wet weather, but during December there are so many things to enjoy that you will quickly forget about the rain. This is the major difference between December and other months as you have lots of positives to balance out the wet weather, and unlike in November or February you do not spend your days just looking at the rain. You have so much more to be getting on with, and so much to see and do that there isn’t time to mope around and curse your bad luck! The amount of rain is also consistently overplayed by guidebooks and websites and in reality it never disrupts a trip. It is true that there are showers nearly every day but in general they come suddenly and pass just as quickly, meaning that you will never be stuck indoors all day. Maybe just for half an hour or so! Also, in a somewhat bizarre paradox, the arrival of the rains brings with it warmer weather, so whereas in June and July you have no rain but chilly days and nights, in December you will have regular showers but also bright, warm, sunny days and more pleasant evenings. So if you can ride out the bursts of rain you will largely be treated to lovely days, perfect for visiting ruins and exploring the city.

Coming to Cusco out of season, and away from the traditional months of May, June, and July has all sorts of benefits and is definitely something to consider for your next trip. If you can live with a bit of rain, you will experience a city gearing up for Christmas, New Year, and the festive season, and will enjoy much more than the standard tourist vacation.